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Routes in Dutchman Rampart

Meat Grinder T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Oh Rats T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Fingers T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 352 total, 4/month
Shared By: Alex A on Nov 25, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Climb overhanging dihedral with crack, to overhang traverse right and around corner to short face(crux)
Var, 5.11d , pull overhang directly,

Protection

standard rack or TR

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Leading "Oh Ratz" by the easiest way is a challenge itself. I have been saving this climb for an on-sight lead attempt. I asked casually a few folks about the route's proper finish climbing under and across the roof to the right and around the corner and only got mediocre responses.... no real warnings.... That was good.... kept me still in the mind-set to try this climb ground up on the lead...
The finish around that corner at the top IS the crux both mentally and physically.... good pro at the feet in the horizontal.... then..... awesome sketchy, slabby, and in-obvious moves to the sloping ledge finish. One of the better "rushes" I have had on lead this season thus far... Oh... and it was 95 and very humid yesterday.... perfect! Jul 2, 2012
Below the roof is gear, none above if I recall correctly. I made some comments about it somewhere on MP before. This deserves a second look. May 2, 2011
Man that overhang looks sweet! Does anyone know if there's any gear in or above it? May 1, 2011