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Routes in Kingfisher
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Colorado Northeast Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Death Of American Democracy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X |
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Return of Mudzilla, The T A3 |
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Weird Science T A4 R |
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Whipping Pussy Riot T A3+ |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Paul Gagner, Jeremy Aslaksen - Oct 14-17, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 3,159 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Hike like you are going to the Colorado Ridge but cut left a bit lower than the start of DOAD.
First pitch has a couple bolts to A4 beaking to a couple more bolts to a bolted belay.
Pitch two continues straight up for a ways to a bolt then some thin A3 beak cracks to a four bolt ladder back to the thin stuff to the belay.
Pitch three heads right off the belay up into the "Sand Trap" and keeps trending a bit right to a two bolt belay. No lead bolts on pitch. A3ish
Pitch four steps right off the belay into a calcite seam that pretty much goes straight up to the caprock passing a bolt or two. A3. The rock on this pitch blows.
Pitch five is a short easy pitch to a stance right below the summit choss box. Belay at two bolts. You could combine pitches four and five. From the belay, 3rd class to the summit. Downclimb. Rap the route.
First pitch has a couple bolts to A4 beaking to a couple more bolts to a bolted belay.
Pitch two continues straight up for a ways to a bolt then some thin A3 beak cracks to a four bolt ladder back to the thin stuff to the belay.
Pitch three heads right off the belay up into the "Sand Trap" and keeps trending a bit right to a two bolt belay. No lead bolts on pitch. A3ish
Pitch four steps right off the belay into a calcite seam that pretty much goes straight up to the caprock passing a bolt or two. A3. The rock on this pitch blows.
Pitch five is a short easy pitch to a stance right below the summit choss box. Belay at two bolts. You could combine pitches four and five. From the belay, 3rd class to the summit. Downclimb. Rap the route.
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