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Routes in Kingfisher
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Colorado Northeast Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Death Of American Democracy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X |
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Jagged Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4- PG13 |
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Return of Mudzilla, The T A3 |
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Thermic Fever T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2+ |
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Weird Science T A4 R |
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Whipping Pussy Riot T A3+ |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Jim Beyer solo 1986 |
| Page Views: | 293 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Jun 11, 2023 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a fine route that ascends the knife-edge ridge on the south end of the formation. I gave the route A4-. It was A4 when Beyer did this with Rurps (no Beaks in 1986) but modern Tomahawks and Peckers make a difference.
1. Start up the crack. This angles up and right and keeps going into a sea of mud. Follow this for 40 feet then work up and left (thin) to gain a second crack. This becomes easier and wider and leads straight up to the ridge above. This is a long pitch (170', A3+).
2. Work up and left, via mantels, semi-free moves, a bolt or two, bits of aid, and finally a short bolt ladder, to gain a ledge on the main Kingfisher formation. This is airy, exposed (5.8/9 and PG, A1, 130').
3. Tension left into a dihedral. Up this, tricky, with a variety of free and aid trickery, to easier terrain. Eventually arrive at a huge, sloping ledge on the arete itself (5.9, A3, 140').
4. Move left again around the arete to the start of a very cool and continuous crack. Lots of thin gear. When the seam disappears, bolts appear. Superb pitch! Small ledge for a belay (A4-, 100').
5. A bolt ladder, with bits of aid here and there, maybe even a free move or two, wanders up into the Moenkopi overhangs above (A3+, 130').
6. My recollection above here is pretty vague (we climbed this in 1993). There is a major chimney/slot that splits the Kingfisher summit in two. This pitch gains the north side of this slot. In theory this is mostly fourth class and about 70 feet long but expect anything.
7. Climb into this wide chimney-slot. Keep going and emerge on the south side of the formation. Maybe 5.6 or so? 70 feet?
8. Traverse the south side of the tower, locate a short hand crack that gets to the summit (5.9).
Location
This starts on the shady side (looking towards the parking lot) of Kingfisher. Hike up from the parking lot to to the left end of the base. Traverse right until just beyond the formation. The climb starts at a crack on the minor blob that sits between Kingfisher and Minotaur. The crack angles up and right.
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