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Early Access
Routes in West Side
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Credibility Gap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Arrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Insignificant But There T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kor's Korner T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pipe Dreams T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Pipe Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Practice Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Headwall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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West Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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West Point Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 38.87785, -104.88069 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,235 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-5
Details
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This climb is located on the west face of South Gateway Rock, near the south end of the formation, about 100 feet (?) south of Credibility Gap.
Climb the overlaps which look easy but are a little balancey and spooky. Gain a good stance below the headwall where you can place some cams. I placed a #0.4 Camalot and a yellow C3 Camalot in an undercling, but these were not inspiring. Step left and place a bomber #2 Camalot in a pothole, which at least protects you as you step up towards the piton. Step up and clip the piton and crank through the bulge. Be ready for some slopers through the crux.
Belay from the small tree behind the headwall, or you can place a medium stopper and #0.75 Camalot in a crack in the side of the block facing north.
Walk off to the south to the saddle between South Gateway Rock and Kindergarten Rock.
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