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Routes in The Barnyard Boulders

Barnyard Crack V1+ 5
Bought The Farm V3 6A
Classic Crack V2 5+
Cooper Problem, The V8 7B
Hay Fever V0 4
Plowed V2 5+
Unnamed V5 6C
Unnamed 2 V1 5
Whitewash V1 5
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 818 total, 8/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This super crimpy bulge may be a lowball, but the beta is interesting and the dynamic crux is somewhat fun. Sit start to the left on two obvious crimps. The right crimp is smaller now than it used to be due to breakage. Pull off the ground and slap right into better holds, then prepare to dyno up to a good three finger crimp before finishing with a very easy topout. Warm up your fingers before touching this one and consider using a dropknee or two. Great for solo missions, but this problem would be far better if the first half was a bit higher off the ground.

Location

On the smaller of the two Barnyard Boulders, look for the obvious crimpy bulge. Downclimb the back of the boulder.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Graham O.
  V6
Graham O.  
  V6
A fun little climb. There is actually a very thin hueco out right that helps with the last move. Jul 8, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8
I disliked this thing for the longest time. Mainly because it was sharp and I couldn't do it, but once it comes together it climbs fairly well. Not the best v8 in the area but worth doing once I suppose. youtube.com/watch?v=EDcbsbb… Jun 11, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Could someone post a picture of the start holds or perhaps give some better info on where they are and maybe a general line of travel for this problem? Been wondering where it really starts for a while now. Apr 27, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
I'm kind of embarrassed that I actually spent time climbing this, but this was one of the handful of v8's I had left to climb in Pway. Fairly beta intensive and powerful, which is cool. On the other hand, it's like 7 feet tall with scrunchy and awkward movement, which is not cool. And on top of that, it's contrived. Remember when this was what bouldering used to be about? I'm glad that's not the case anymore. May 18, 2015
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
Ignore it. Using it drops the grade down to about V6 and changes the crux altogether. Aug 27, 2013
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
Are you suppose to ignore the amazing jug flake out to the right for the last move (big move to the 3 finger pocket) Aug 19, 2013
andyscott
Massachusetts
andyscott   Massachusetts
If the starting crimps were at head height this would be really good, but they are not. A right leg dropknee with the foot way down low helps for the crux move. Apr 2, 2010