PRINT: Climb The Cooper Problem, *Pawtuckaway

The Cooper Problem

V8, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),

Avg: 1.5 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Boulder Natural > Barnyard Boulders

Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See Details

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Description

This super crimpy bulge may be a lowball, but the beta is interesting and the dynamic crux is somewhat fun. Sit start to the left on two obvious crimps. The right crimp is smaller now than it used to be due to breakage. Pull off the ground and slap right into better holds, then prepare to dyno up to a good three finger crimp before finishing with a very easy topout. Warm up your fingers before touching this one and consider using a dropknee or two. Great for solo missions, but this problem would be far better if the first half was a bit higher off the ground.

Location

On the smaller of the two Barnyard Boulders, look for the obvious crimpy bulge. Downclimb the back of the boulder.

Protection

Pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

unnamed v5 & cooper's shot

Setting up for the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andyscott
Massachusetts

If the starting crimps were at head height this would be really good, but they are not. A right leg dropknee with the foot way down low helps for the crux move. Apr 2, 2010

Josh Villeneuve
Granby, CT

Are you suppose to ignore the amazing jug flake out to the right for the last move (big move to the 3 finger pocket) Aug 19, 2013

BDalhaus
New Gloucester, ME

Ignore it. Using it drops the grade down to about V6 and changes the crux altogether. Aug 27, 2013

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO

I'm kind of embarrassed that I actually spent time climbing this, but this was one of the handful of v8's I had left to climb in Pway. Fairly beta intensive and powerful, which is cool. On the other hand, it's like 7 feet tall with scrunchy and awkward movement, which is not cool. And on top of that, it's contrived. Remember when this was what bouldering used to be about? I'm glad that's not the case anymore. May 18, 2015

Jake Perry
Concord, NH

Could someone post a picture of the start holds or perhaps give some better info on where they are and maybe a general line of travel for this problem? Been wondering where it really starts for a while now. Apr 27, 2016

Troy Fauteux
Henniker, NH

I disliked this thing for the longest time. Mainly because it was sharp and I couldn't do it, but once it comes together it climbs fairly well. Not the best v8 in the area but worth doing once I suppose. youtube.com/watch?v=EDcbsbb… Jun 11, 2016

Shaun Davies
Windham, ME

Got on this last night and couldn't imagine pulling off those crimps with feet under the face. I did however find that you can pull on with a low left foot and a right toe hook on the RH sloper. Pull and try to do a semi dynamic hand foot match before continuing the problem as normal. Much less sharp and actually flows quite well. May 7, 2021

Owen Jackson
Rhode Island

I think my beta made this soft. Starting without the cross seemed way harder to me. Beta video: youtube.com/shorts/QZEchDuFYNk Dec 3, 2022