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Routes in Old School Rock

Bang Bang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dag Nasty Part Deux S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond Dogs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Stone Crab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown name S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 1,834 total, 18/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 29, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

It's rare in American Fork Canyon that you climb well above the tops of the tallest trees; this route combines fun exposure, a great, secluded location, and some good climbing.

P1 (5.10a, 70 feet) Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge. Look right about ten feet and slightly up and you can see the two-bolt belay anchor. Climb up, clip the next bolt, then traverse right and slightly down to the anchor. Granted it's weird, but it'll make sense for pitch 2.

P2 (5.10b, 80 feet) If the second is leading P2, it's easiest for the second to just keep going rather than to traverse over to the anchor (you've got all the draws anyway). Follow three bolts up along an arete and then cross to the right side of the arete onto a slabby face. Traverse up and right through two more bolts to the base of a bulgy headwall. Surmount the steepness using fun moves while marveling at the view, then continue up to the anchor.

To descend, walk off down and right to the gully on your right. It's likely possible to get down using two raps, but since you brought your approach shoes with you, why bother?

Location

Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing Visionary Wall. Approach by either walking up the left side of the Visionary Wall gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.

This is the right of the two bolt lines.

Protection

P1 9 (maybe 10?) bolts, Metolius rap hanger anchors
P2 9 bolts, Metolius rap hanger anchors

Photos

BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
This is a little slice of adventure hidden away in the back of American Fork.

The first pitch is pretty neat with a few roofs, but the second pitch is thrilling. There is a long, hair raising traverse and a big roof that seems desperate until you find these hidden, deep holds.

For how little traffic this route sees, the holds and rock are bomber.

Loved the route. Aug 4, 2015
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
The rock on this climb is spackled with tiny sharp edges that can really give great friction when you need to smear. The lower pitch has several small roofs with juggy moves. The upper pitch turns personality with edges on the blackish bizarre rock. There are some long stretch moves that are exhilerating. Amazing route. Jul 29, 2009