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> Southern Wasatch
> American Fork C…
> Tank Canyon
> Old School Rock
Old School
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 14
votes
Routes in Old School Rock
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Ashes to Ashes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bang Bang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Boo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dag Nasty Part Deux S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Diamond Dogs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Old School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Stone Crab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Baldwin |
| Page Views: | 3,248 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Jul 29, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area
Details
The Lone Peak Wilderness boundary begins a short distance into Tank Canyon. Wilderness rules blm.gov/wo/st/en/info/regul… apply.
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
It's rare in American Fork Canyon that you climb well above the tops of the tallest trees; this route combines fun exposure, a great, secluded location, and some good climbing.
P1 (5.10a, 70 feet) Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge. Look right about ten feet and slightly up and you can see the two-bolt belay anchor. Climb up, clip the next bolt, then traverse right and slightly down to the anchor. Granted it's weird, but it'll make sense for pitch 2.
P2 (5.10b, 80 feet) If the second is leading P2, it's easiest for the second to just keep going rather than to traverse over to the anchor (you've got all the draws anyway). Follow three bolts up along an arete and then cross to the right side of the arete onto a slabby face. Traverse up and right through two more bolts to the base of a bulgy headwall. Surmount the steepness using fun moves while marveling at the view, then continue up to the anchor.
To descend, walk off down and right to the gully on your right. It's likely possible to get down using two raps, but since you brought your approach shoes with you, why bother?
P1 (5.10a, 70 feet) Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge. Look right about ten feet and slightly up and you can see the two-bolt belay anchor. Climb up, clip the next bolt, then traverse right and slightly down to the anchor. Granted it's weird, but it'll make sense for pitch 2.
P2 (5.10b, 80 feet) If the second is leading P2, it's easiest for the second to just keep going rather than to traverse over to the anchor (you've got all the draws anyway). Follow three bolts up along an arete and then cross to the right side of the arete onto a slabby face. Traverse up and right through two more bolts to the base of a bulgy headwall. Surmount the steepness using fun moves while marveling at the view, then continue up to the anchor.
To descend, walk off down and right to the gully on your right. It's likely possible to get down using two raps, but since you brought your approach shoes with you, why bother?
Location
Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing Visionary Wall. Approach by either walking up the left side of the Visionary Wall gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.
This is the right of the two bolt lines.
This is the right of the two bolt lines.
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