GPS: 40.447, -111.688 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,091 total · 56/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Old School Rock is a limestone buttress that separates two steep, loose gullies. The buttress is home to a handful of bolted lines including a rarity in American Fork Canyon: a multi-pitch route.

The rock is steep, solid, and mostly lacks the pockets for which American Fork is known. Instead, the climbing is devious face climbing on small edges with the occasional jug. Most of the lines have a ledge or two allowing decent rests.

Getting There

Walk up Tank Canyon and follow the trail on the east (right) of the streambed. The trail will cross the streambed heading north and then immediately turn east (right). Continue following the trail through a grove of evergreens and then step over some tree roots and a short steep section to walk to the left of the stream.

The trail (and stream) turns north again (left); follow the trail past two gullies on the left. Just before the third gully a bolted route will appear on a limestone outcropping that almost reaches to the streambed. This is the first route on Visionary Wall.

For the three routes on the south side of the buttress, head up the gully along the base of Visionary Wall and cross the steep, loose gully when you are more-or-less level with the routes.

For the rest of the routes continue another hundred feet or so and head up along the south side of the next rock outcropping that almost reaches the streambed.

About a 12-minute walk.

Route List

South side of buttress, left-to-right (i.e., starting uphill):

1. Spot 5.11b
2. Boo Direct 5.12a/b (shares start and anchors with Boo)
3. Boo 5.11c

East side of buttress:

4. Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9
5. Old Stone Crab 5.10a (one long pitch, shares most of Old School's first pitch).
6. Old School 5.10b (two pitches, starts on east face)

North side of buttress (still left-to-right):

7. Diamond Dogs 5.11d
8. Bang Bang 5.11c

North side of gully north of buttress (south-facing):

9. Ashes to Ashes 5.11b

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old School Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Old School
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old School
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
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