GPS: 40.447, -111.688 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Access Issue: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


Old School Rock is a limestone buttress that separates two steep, loose gullies. The buttress is home to a handful of bolted lines including a rarity in American Fork Canyon: a multi-pitch route.

The rock is steep, solid, and mostly lacks the pockets for which American Fork is known. Instead, the climbing is devious face climbing on small edges with the occasional jug. Most of the lines have a ledge or two allowing decent rests.

Getting There

Walk up Tank Canyon and follow the trail on the east (right) of the streambed. The trail will cross the streambed heading north and then immediately turn east (right). Continue following the trail through a grove of evergreens and then step over some tree roots and a short steep section to walk to the left of the stream.

The trail (and stream) turns north again (left); follow the trail past two gullies on the left. Just before the third gully a bolted route will appear on a limestone outcropping that almost reaches to the streambed. This is the first route on Visionary Wall.

For the three routes on the south side of the buttress, head up the gully along the base of Visionary Wall and cross the steep, loose gully when you are more-or-less level with the routes.

For the rest of the routes continue another hundred feet or so and head up along the south side of the next rock outcropping that almost reaches the streambed.

About a 12-minute walk.

Route List

South side of buttress, left-to-right (i.e., starting uphill):

1. Spot 5.11b
2. Boo Direct 5.12a/b (shares start and anchors with Boo)
3. Boo 5.11c

East side of buttress:

4. Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9
5. Old Stone Crab 5.10a (one long pitch, shares most of Old School's first pitch).
6. Old School 5.10b (two pitches, starts on east face)

North side of buttress (still left-to-right):

7. Diamond Dogs 5.11d
8. Bang Bang 5.11c

North side of gully north of buttress (south-facing):

9. Ashes to Ashes 5.11b

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old School Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old School
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old School
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
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The unnamed #10 rte is a 12a called Inky. Stick clip the first bolt, a good bouldery rte. 2/3 stars

The 2 rtes at the top of the gully on the right are left to right.

Spot 11a/b. Some nice climbing on good rock, crux low down. 2 stars

Boo 11c. If you finish up the arete. 3 stars
Boo direct 12a/b. If you go straight up the face to the anchor. 2 stars Aug 1, 2009
BJB   Texas

Maybe this description makes sense when the stream is running, but when it's dry, I looked for about 1 1/2 hours before I found this area. This is my description of the approach ASSUMING THE STREAM IS DRY:

Follow the stream until you reach a big cliff that reaches almost into the streambed. This wall has one bolted route on it. This is Bug Bannanas from the miscellaneous routes.

(If you stay on the right side of the stream, you are going to walk past Two O'Clock Rock and the miscellaneous route Warthog before you get to the Visionary / Old School area)

Keep following the stream bed past Bug Bannanas. On your left in (I believe) the next gully/canyon, you will see obvious belay ledges on the left side of the gully. The left wall/side of the gully is Visionary Wall. The right wall/side of the gully is Old School. Aug 4, 2015