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Routes in Old School Rock

Bang Bang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dag Nasty Part Deux S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond Dogs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Stone Crab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown name S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A sweet handjam, a drop-knee, and a partial kneebar on a superb line that climbs a prow high above the starting gully.

A tricky start leads to briefly easier climbing, followed by a slightly overhanging section right where you think you'd get a rest. A thin bit leads to the base of the upper prow, followed by some difficult moves to get established on the prow. Sidepulls and small crimps lead up the steep rock, until the angle eases just before the anchors.

Location

The right-most (uphill) of the two bolted lines on the north-facing side of Old School Rock.

Protection

10 bolts, Metolius rap anchors.

Photos

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Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11b
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11b
This is another gem in this canyon that is superb. Perin and I went up there not knowing much about this climb. Thank goodness for the rest but since I have never climbed an .11c (even in the gym), I have to agree with Perin. You will use a variety of techniques to get up this quality line. Sep 23, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I was told this line is .11c but it felt more like .11b to me. If you don't avail yourself of the obvious rest before the crux, it probably feels more like .11c. Sep 10, 2009