Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 123 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A sweet handjam, a drop-knee, and a partial kneebar on a superb line that climbs a prow high above the starting gully.

A tricky start leads to briefly easier climbing, followed by a slightly overhanging section right where you think you'd get a rest. A thin bit leads to the base of the upper prow, followed by some difficult moves to get established on the prow. Sidepulls and small crimps lead up the steep rock, until the angle eases just before the anchors.

Location

The right-most (uphill) of the two bolted lines on the north-facing side of Old School Rock.

Protection

10 bolts, Metolius rap anchors.

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Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.11c
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.11c
I was told this line is .11c but it felt more like .11b to me. If you don't avail yourself of the obvious rest before the crux, it probably feels more like .11c. Sep 10, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11b
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11b
This is another gem in this canyon that is superb. Perin and I went up there not knowing much about this climb. Thank goodness for the rest but since I have never climbed an .11c (even in the gym), I have to agree with Perin. You will use a variety of techniques to get up this quality line. Sep 23, 2009