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Routes in Old School Rock

Bang Bang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dag Nasty Part Deux S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond Dogs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Stone Crab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown name S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 127 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description


70m rope required



Start up the left of the two bolt lines and head up blocky, lower-angle terrain past an initial bulge and then into a steeper-than-it-appears headwall above. Clear the headwall and head up some slabby limestone with cool chert dikes, interesting pockets and edges, and then up over a roof in ligher-colored rock just before the anchors. Note that the bolt just over the last roof is difficult to see from below.

Rappelling (there are some rough edges) with a 70m rope will just make it to safe ground with rope stretch. Knot the rope ends.

70m rope required


Location

Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing Visionary Wall. Approach by either walking up the left side of the Visionary Wall gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.

This is the left of the two bolt lines.

Protection

16 bolts, single-ring anchors.

Photos

greg austin
Lehi, Utah
 
greg austin   Lehi, Utah
 
I would recommend this route. Some of the loose rock has been cleaned up, although I pulled a handhold off and took a short fall. Bring a long runner to attach to the rings at the top and you can stand on the ledge. The view of Tank canyon from the top is awesome. A long route that has an adventurous feel. Sep 18, 2013
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
If you were at a hanging belay you weren't on Dag Nasty Part Deux.

Likely you were on Old School, although I don't remember the rock being particularly bad on that one. Jul 18, 2011
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
I would not recommend this route mostly due to rock quality on the headwall. Its also disconcerting to stand on suspect pillars with the bolt below your feet in said pillar. Last complaint is placement of a hanging belay in relatively suspect rock when a good stance with good rock is 3 feet lower. Jul 18, 2011