Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,620 total · 23/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

After getting through the last bulge on Rucksack Wanderer, bust right to a big cobble and kneebar rest. A couple of big moves up on good holds takes you to a jug that is typically full of bird crap since it is a nest, grab it shallow unless it has been cleaned out recently. A couple of moves up you are landed in some good pockets out of sequence. Fix your hands and make a move up then gun for the jug at the anchors. Quite an exciting finishing throw and pretty much guaranteed to give you some flight time.

Location

Start on Rucksack and after the last bulge move straight up the steeper wall above.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.13a
the dr. topo calls this a 12d... I'd call it a very stout 12d, or a very soft 13a. Sep 1, 2009
stefan96
Boulder, Co
stefan96   Boulder, Co
what is la confianza then? Apr 13, 2010
KevinM
 
KevinM  
 
The dr. topo grades are wrong at the lower end. There is a good blog out there about the grades at the Dream (look on 8a), but basically The Diggler and Confienza are both 13a according to the blog. I would personally say hard 13a, but i'm weak. Jul 3, 2011
T_jones
Salt Lake
5.13a
T_jones   Salt Lake
5.13a
A tad more bouldery, a tad easier, and a tad less fun than Confianza. If you do one, the other will come easy. Sep 13, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13b
Sometime in the last 2 years the jug with the birds nest has been cleaned out and blocked with glue leaving a good hold and no nest. Nov 12, 2012