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Routes in The Pipe Dream

Buddha's Belly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dang Awesome S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deliverance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Diggler S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Confianza S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Texas S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dry Spunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dry Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ego Boost S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Eulogy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Excavation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Feast, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kama Sutra Bicycle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Confienza S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Le Spunk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Long Present S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mexican Rodeo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Millennium S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mutton Bustin S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Orgasmo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PipeDream S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rodeo Clown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rucksack Wanderer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solstice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sprout S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeel Like A Pig S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
SuperSpunk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
T-Rex S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Take it for the Team S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic Potatoes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toxic Tomatoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Turkey S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Toxic Watermelon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Waterfall Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whole Shot S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wyoming Sheep Shagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,372 total, 23/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

After getting through the last bulge on Rucksack Wanderer, bust right to a big cobble and kneebar rest. A couple of big moves up on good holds takes you to a jug that is typically full of bird crap since it is a nest, grab it shallow unless it has been cleaned out recently. A couple of moves up you are landed in some good pockets out of sequence. Fix your hands and make a move up then gun for the jug at the anchors. Quite an exciting finishing throw and pretty much guaranteed to give you some flight time.

Location

Start on Rucksack and after the last bulge move straight up the steeper wall above.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Sometime in the last 2 years the jug with the birds nest has been cleaned out and blocked with glue leaving a good hold and no nest. Nov 12, 2012
T_jones
Salt Lake
5.13a
T_jones   Salt Lake
5.13a
A tad more bouldery, a tad easier, and a tad less fun than Confianza. If you do one, the other will come easy. Sep 13, 2012
KevinM
 
KevinM  
 
The dr. topo grades are wrong at the lower end. There is a good blog out there about the grades at the Dream (look on 8a), but basically The Diggler and Confienza are both 13a according to the blog. I would personally say hard 13a, but i'm weak. Jul 3, 2011
stefan96
Boulder, Co
stefan96   Boulder, Co
what is la confianza then? Apr 13, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.13a
the dr. topo calls this a 12d... I'd call it a very stout 12d, or a very soft 13a. Sep 1, 2009