Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 5,456 total · 39/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Straight out the center of the Pipe Dream Cave, this super long, and sustained route is all about endurance, resting, and staying relaxed.

Start on two pinches, and climb an 11d to a huge jug at the 5th bolt. From this hold the angle of the wall steepens and the difficulty of the climbing increases. After resting, make a bunch of V3 moves to a right trending rail and continue up this feature to a jug. Do another 20 feet of V3 moves to a ledge where it's possible to get an upside-down double knee bar rest. Once you are recovered, cut left (the right line of quickdraws is Wholeshot) and do another V3 boulder problem to the second ledge where another kneebar is waiting. Get it all back, and then veer slightly right into the most difficult and sustained section of the route. Rest anywhere you can, tackle the redpoint crux at the last bolt and then top it out!


To find the start, simply walk 15 feet left of Toxic Turkey and look for the dark cobble with "The Great Feast" written on it.


All the quickdraws are fixed, including the anchors. This route requires a 60 meter rope to reach the ground from the anchors. Two kneepads are useful.


Wow, this sounds amazing. Dec 30, 2011