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Routes in The Pipe Dream

Buddha's Belly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dang Awesome S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deliverance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Diggler S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Confianza S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Texas S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dry Spunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dry Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ego Boost S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Eulogy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Excavation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Feast, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kama Sutra Bicycle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Confienza S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Le Spunk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Long Present S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mexican Rodeo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Millennium S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mutton Bustin S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Orgasmo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PipeDream S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rodeo Clown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rucksack Wanderer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solstice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sprout S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeel Like A Pig S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
SuperSpunk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
T-Rex S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Take it for the Team S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic Potatoes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toxic Tomatoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Turkey S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Toxic Watermelon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Waterfall Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whole Shot S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wyoming Sheep Shagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 4,731 total, 38/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Straight out the center of the Pipe Dream Cave, this super long, and sustained route is all about endurance, resting, and staying relaxed.

Start on two pinches, and climb an 11d to a huge jug at the 5th bolt. From this hold the angle of the wall steepens and the difficulty of the climbing increases. After resting, make a bunch of V3 moves to a right trending rail and continue up this feature to a jug. Do another 20 feet of V3 moves to a ledge where it's possible to get an upside-down double knee bar rest. Once you are recovered, cut left (the right line of quickdraws is Wholeshot) and do another V3 boulder problem to the second ledge where another kneebar is waiting. Get it all back, and then veer slightly right into the most difficult and sustained section of the route. Rest anywhere you can, tackle the redpoint crux at the last bolt and then top it out!

Location

To find the start, simply walk 15 feet left of Toxic Turkey and look for the dark cobble with "The Great Feast" written on it.

Protection

All the quickdraws are fixed, including the anchors. This route requires a 60 meter rope to reach the ground from the anchors. Two kneepads are useful.
Wow, this sounds amazing. Dec 30, 2011