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Routes in The Pipe Dream

Buddha's Belly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dang Awesome S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deliverance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Diggler S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Confianza S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Texas S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dry Spunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dry Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ego Boost S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Eulogy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Excavation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Feast, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kama Sutra Bicycle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Confienza S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Le Spunk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Long Present S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mexican Rodeo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Millennium S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mutton Bustin S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Orgasmo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PipeDream S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rodeo Clown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rucksack Wanderer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solstice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sprout S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeel Like A Pig S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
SuperSpunk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
T-Rex S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Take it for the Team S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic Potatoes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toxic Tomatoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Turkey S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Toxic Watermelon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Waterfall Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whole Shot S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wyoming Sheep Shagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,203 total, 37/month
Shared By: Blake Cash on Jan 14, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Starts at the very back of the cave. Begins with long moves between positive albeit slopey holds and ok feet to the 4th bolt where you can cop a quick shake before wrestling through a watermelon-sized cobble (look for a knee bar here to make this a little easier). From here, the angle kicks back to horizontal and all underclings take you to a double knee bar rest. This has been said to be a 13b or so to the double knee bars.

From this rest, start out with juggy moves to another ok rest. From here the holds get small (for maple) and a lot of tension is needed to move left to the jug rail that is on la confianza. Sprint through this section and through the confianza crux to a final rest. From here take a hard left and do the text book jump finish to the anchor clipping jugs at mid-height in the cave.

Lots of trickery on this one. Look for some subtle knee scumming where the climbing seems to get the hardest...it'll help.

Location

At the back of the cave.

Protection

Bolts with fixed draws. 2 kneepads will definitely help.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Many cobbles at Maple are slopey and positive. Slopey meaning rounded would be my guess. Jun 21, 2016
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
"long moves between positive albeit slopey holds..." I don't quite get this, I thought that positive was the opposite of slopey, therefor, if a hold is positive it can't be slopey, did you mean to say big albeit slopey holds? Just curious about what is meant by this statement. Jun 3, 2016