Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 10,584 total · 67/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Jul 23, 2007 with improvements by Pnelson
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route, one of the easiest that climbs out of the pipedream proper. Some call it 13a/b on the basis that it consists of so many taxing moves.

Starts out on some 11b that feels more like 5.10 up to the massive roof, skip the draw before the chains wiggle into a double kneebar hands off rest, clip the next draw rest then proceed. The next 6-7 draws consists of 2-3 finger pocket pulling at a steep angle moving right into eventually less steep terrain. Get a right kneebar master some trickery and then pull 5-6 more draws of 12- to the chains.

Feels similar in length and angle to pump-o-rama in rifle. It even shares the same crux move, a right kneebar reach move off of crimps.

Location

to the right of toxic turkey in the right hand sector of the cave

Protection

17 fixed draws and anchors

Photos