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Routes in The Pipe Dream

Buddha's Belly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dang Awesome S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deliverance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Diggler S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Confianza S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Texas S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dry Spunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dry Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ego Boost S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Eulogy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Excavation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Feast, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kama Sutra Bicycle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Confienza S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Le Spunk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Long Present S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mexican Rodeo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Millennium S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mutton Bustin S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Orgasmo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PipeDream S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rodeo Clown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rucksack Wanderer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solstice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sprout S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeel Like A Pig S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
SuperSpunk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
T-Rex S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Take it for the Team S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic Potatoes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toxic Tomatoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Turkey S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Toxic Watermelon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Waterfall Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whole Shot S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wyoming Sheep Shagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,856 total, 70/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route, one of the easiest that climbs out of the pipedream proper. Some call it 13a/b on the basis that it consists of so many taxing moves.

Starts out on some 11b that feels more like 5.10 up to the massive roof, skip the draw before the chains wiggle into a double kneebar hands off rest, clip the next draw rest then proceed. The next 6-7 draws consists of 2-3 finger pocket pulling at a steep angle moving right into eventually less steep terrain. Get a right kneebar master some trickery and then pull 5-6 more draws of 12- to the chains.

Feels similar in length and angle to pump-o-rama in rifle. It even shares the same crux move, a right kneebar reach move off of crimps.

Location

to the right of toxic turkey in the right hand sector of the cave

Protection

17 fixed draws and anchors
The fish bolt after the first set of anchors has been replaced with a wave bolt glue-in Jun 12, 2017
What color was the glue? Anyone know how long ago it was placed or what type/brand of glue? Was it "wet" on the pulled bolt? There was a recent glue failure at Red Rock too. Good catch keeping him/her off the ground!!!

I guess the only important question is if there are other glueins on this route placed at the same time? There is a small chance it's bad glue, a small chance it had not met its cure timeframe, and a much larger chance it was not cured due to not being mixed well. The same deficiency is likely to exist with other bolts placed with that tube and/or tip that day. Jun 8, 2017
A friend of mine whipped on at the crux and ended up going for a much longer ride than expected after the glue-bolt popped mid-flight, we will be returning this weekend to replace the missing bolt under the crux/ 5th bolt. Jun 8, 2017
Chad Hammond  
 
This route is missing the fifth bolt in the roof. It is still safe, just a little tougher to hang dog. Jun 1, 2017
Joe Collins
  5.13b
Joe Collins  
  5.13b
The headwall is every bit of 5.12. You most certainly can pump out after pulling the lip... I know from experience.

Despite the multiple drilled/enhanced pockets, this along with Pump-o-Rama at Rifle is one of the great 13-minus endurance testpieces. With the broken hold, this thing could warrant an upgrade... its definitely harder than it was before. Jul 14, 2010
A right-hand jug broke off at the crux creating a more difficult and technical crux sequence. Could possibly change the grade? Jun 28, 2010
I dont know about the drilled pockets.... The climb is great, but I would not call the top 12-. Its 11b at the hardest... if even. After you pull the lip, you climb jugs the whole way to the anchors... with kneebar rests and heelhooks to get it all back. If you get to the lip you won't fall. Jun 8, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
fun, but there is about a dozen drilled pockets on this one... Sep 7, 2009