Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,581 total · 68/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route, one of the easiest that climbs out of the pipedream proper. Some call it 13a/b on the basis that it consists of so many taxing moves.

Starts out on some 11b that feels more like 5.10 up to the massive roof, skip the draw before the chains wiggle into a double kneebar hands off rest, clip the next draw rest then proceed. The next 6-7 draws consists of 2-3 finger pocket pulling at a steep angle moving right into eventually less steep terrain. Get a right kneebar master some trickery and then pull 5-6 more draws of 12- to the chains.

Feels similar in length and angle to pump-o-rama in rifle. It even shares the same crux move, a right kneebar reach move off of crimps.

Location

to the right of toxic turkey in the right hand sector of the cave

Protection

17 fixed draws and anchors
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
fun, but there is about a dozen drilled pockets on this one... Sep 7, 2009
I dont know about the drilled pockets.... The climb is great, but I would not call the top 12-. Its 11b at the hardest... if even. After you pull the lip, you climb jugs the whole way to the anchors... with kneebar rests and heelhooks to get it all back. If you get to the lip you won't fall. Jun 8, 2010
A right-hand jug broke off at the crux creating a more difficult and technical crux sequence. Could possibly change the grade? Jun 28, 2010
Joe Collins
  5.13b
Joe Collins  
  5.13b
The headwall is every bit of 5.12. You most certainly can pump out after pulling the lip... I know from experience.

Despite the multiple drilled/enhanced pockets, this along with Pump-o-Rama at Rifle is one of the great 13-minus endurance testpieces. With the broken hold, this thing could warrant an upgrade... its definitely harder than it was before. Jul 14, 2010
Chad Hammond  
 
This route is missing the fifth bolt in the roof. It is still safe, just a little tougher to hang dog. Jun 1, 2017
A friend of mine whipped on at the crux and ended up going for a much longer ride than expected after the glue-bolt popped mid-flight, we will be returning this weekend to replace the missing bolt under the crux/ 5th bolt. Jun 8, 2017
What color was the glue? Anyone know how long ago it was placed or what type/brand of glue? Was it "wet" on the pulled bolt? There was a recent glue failure at Red Rock too. Good catch keeping him/her off the ground!!!

I guess the only important question is if there are other glueins on this route placed at the same time? There is a small chance it's bad glue, a small chance it had not met its cure timeframe, and a much larger chance it was not cured due to not being mixed well. The same deficiency is likely to exist with other bolts placed with that tube and/or tip that day. Jun 8, 2017
Jimmy Keithley
Salt Lake City, UT
Jimmy Keithley   Salt Lake City, UT
The fish bolt after the first set of anchors has been replaced with a wave bolt glue-in Jun 12, 2017