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Routes in The Pipe Dream

Buddha's Belly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dang Awesome S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deliverance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Diggler S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Confianza S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Mess With Texas S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dry Spunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dry Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ego Boost S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Eulogy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Excavation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Feast, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kama Sutra Bicycle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Confienza S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Le Spunk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Long Present S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mexican Rodeo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Millennium S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mutton Bustin S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Orgasmo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PipeDream S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rodeo Clown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rucksack Wanderer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solstice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sprout S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeel Like A Pig S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
SuperSpunk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
T-Rex S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Take it for the Team S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic Potatoes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toxic Tomatoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Turkey S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Toxic Watermelon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Waterfall Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whole Shot S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wyoming Sheep Shagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Elevation: 7,790 ft
GPS: 39.566, -111.696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,713 total · 249/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.

Getting There

The trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pipe Dream

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Here is a topo to the Pipe Dream Cave

Have fun! Dec 2, 2011

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