Elevation: 7,751 ft
GPS: 39.56569, -111.69639
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 117,714 total · 524/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.

Getting There

Hike up the right fork trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Trail entrance is across from campsite #16. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pipe Dream

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 124
Toxic Watermelon
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 87
Buddha's Belly
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 44
Dang Awesome
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 120
Toxic Potatoes
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 105
Excavation
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 157
Dry Spunk
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 77
Solstice
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 86
Le Spunk
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 71
Wake and Bake
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 132
Dry Times
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 120
Orgasmo
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 108
Deliverance
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 33
Rucksack Wanderer
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 80
Sprout
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 28
La Confienza
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Toxic Watermelon
 124
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Buddha's Belly
 87
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dang Awesome
 44
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Toxic Potatoes
 120
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Excavation
 105
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Dry Spunk
 157
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Solstice
 77
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Le Spunk
 86
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wake and Bake
 71
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Dry Times
 132
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Orgasmo
 120
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Deliverance
 108
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Rucksack Wanderer
 33
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sprout
 80
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
La Confienza
 28
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
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