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Elevation: 7,751 ft 2,363 m
GPS: 39.56569, -111.69639
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 119,741 total · 494/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

Description Suggest change

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.

Getting There Suggest change

Hike up the right fork trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Trail entrance is across from campsite #16. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.

41 Total Climbs

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Location: The Pipe Dream Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pipe Dream

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 124
Excavation
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 188
Dry Spunk
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 100
Le Spunk
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 150
Dry Times
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 138
Orgasmo
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 120
Deliverance
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 89
Sprout
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 33
La Confianza
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 15
Toxic Turkey
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 13
The Great Feast
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 7
Don't Mess With Texas
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 8
Wyoming Sheep Shagger
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 7
Millennium
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Whole Shot
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 4
PipeDream
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Excavation
 124
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Dry Spunk
 188
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Le Spunk
 100
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Dry Times
 150
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Orgasmo
 138
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Deliverance
 120
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Sprout
 89
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
La Confianza
 33
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Toxic Turkey
 15
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
The Great Feast
 13
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Don't Mess With Texas
 7
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Wyoming Sheep Shagger
 8
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Millennium
 7
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Whole Shot
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
PipeDream
 4
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Pipe Dream »

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