Elevation: 7,751 ft
GPS: 39.566, -111.696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 94,090 total · 459/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Maple Canyon will be closed to all access June 7th through June 10th and again June 14th through June 17th for major road improvements in the canyon. Details

Description

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.

Getting There

Hike up the right fork trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Trail entrance is across from campsite #16. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Pipe Dream

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
Buddha's Belly
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 106
Toxic Watermelon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 105
Toxic Potatoes
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 86
Excavation
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 134
Dry Spunk
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 65
Solstice
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 75
Le Spunk
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 61
Wake and Bake
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 110
Dry Times
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 107
Orgasmo
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 90
Deliverance
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 29
Rucksack Wanderer
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 70
Sprout
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 24
La Confienza
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 11
The Great Feast
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Buddha's Belly
 65
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Toxic Watermelon
 106
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Toxic Potatoes
 105
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Excavation
 86
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Dry Spunk
 134
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Solstice
 65
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Le Spunk
 75
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wake and Bake
 61
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Dry Times
 110
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Orgasmo
 107
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Deliverance
 90
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Rucksack Wanderer
 29
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sprout
 70
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
La Confienza
 24
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Great Feast
 11
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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