Avg: 3 from 116 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||K. Wild, B. Stover, M. Humphery, 8/2001|
|Page Views:||15,418 total · 104/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jul 5, 2009|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
P1 (5.9, 50m, bolted + gear): From the belay bolt, step left then up onto the rock passing a few bolts on somewhat mellow moves before moving right to bear-hug a buttress from both sides. Climb right of the bolt line for a move or two, then back left and onto easier territory again, and up into a low angle crack and groove, now placing gear. (5.6?). After 50 meters or perhaps a little less, you will come to a ledge with a bolted belay.
P2 (5.7, 40m, gear): Continue up and left on less distinct but easy, low-angle rock. You will arrive on a ledge with a bolted belay in just under 40 meters. Belay here or move the belay left onto the next pitch (possible heavy drag).
If you belayed at the bolts atop P2, move the belay left 40 feet on the ledge, preferably up onto a pedestal at the first bolt on P3. The climbing is only 5.5 or so, and the stance is very good.
P3: (5.9++, 35M, bolts + gear) From the first bolt atop the pedestal, climb up and left past a second bolt on moderate moves (5.7) and to a slick and polished area with small edges for feet. This is the technical crux of the route in my opinion, though it is given only 5.9 in the books. Moving out left to reach a blunt arete is difficult, but reasonably well protected. From there, head up and right past a few more bolts and onto a good ledge with a tree belay.
P4 (5.6, 40m, gear + bolt): Leave the belay, heading for a single bolt up and right. Clip this and head up, then up and right into a large left-facing corner with a low angle slab on its left side. The climbing here is pretty easy and feels like low angle slab, but the crack in the corner offers some pretty frequent protection. use long slings to avoid drag. You will arrive an a heavily forested ledge from which to belay from trees.
Move the belay up perhaps 100 feet up and left through the woods on a clear trail to the base of the next cliff section. You will see a OW crack to the left and a 45' handcrack to the right. The handcrack is the next pitch, so belay there.
P5 (5.8, 20m, gear): This is the shortest pitch on the climb. Get up and into a very short section of right-facing crack for a few moves, then move right into a hand-sized offset that is left-facing for a few more meters. Set a good directional up top, and consider slinging an exposed root for a further directional, as you will top out on a ledge and move the belay far left, perhaps 30' or so past some sharp and catch flakes. Protect your partner from a stuck rope or swing! Move left to the first of 2 two-bolt belays. This one will have a Chain and ring anchor. Further left, perhaps 40' more there is a 2-bolt 2 ring fixe anchor that is NOT on route (??? what is it ???). Stop and belay.
P6 (5.9-, 45M, gear + bolts): looking up you will see a left-pointing thick flake that starts as a roof, goes to a lieback, and turns to a ledge all within a few meters. Head up under this, place a piece on a long sling, start turning its corner to the left and place more gear, make a single secure 5.9 move and step up onto the flake and place more gear on a long sling again. Head up and left onto very low angle rock past 2 more bolts on a very pleasant slab. The feet and palms are simply pasted down to walk up this to a slight "roof" of sorts. Clip a bolt over the small step of a roof and do the "5.9+" move (felt 5.8) to get onto the slightly more vertical section of wall, the up and right to a crack (gear with long slings) the back left on a ledge and up again to a good crack/flake leading up and right to the next ledge. Any gear placed after the last bolt will be best clipped with a sling to avoid drag. Arrive at a 2 bolt belay on a good ledge. I skipped this belay and continued without clipping it into the next pitch to combine pitches pitches 6-10 (5 pitches) into 3 pitches, 2 of which were 68 meters long.
P7 (5.7, 45M, sparse bolts) head up and right into an obvious dike of greyish white rock with good incuts and cobbles. Climb up this past 2 bolts (5.4?) and head left with it when it takes a 90 degree bend in that direction. Pass 2 more bolts and a 5.7 crux (balancy) between those bolts heading down and left towards a ledge with 2 small pines, each the size of your leg. If you skipped the last belay, you can belay here, using both trees slung as near to the bases as at the bases since the roots appear to be shallow. This does appear to be the original belay for the route, before some anchors were later installed, according to the McLane book, and you will be at 68 meters from the previous belay used. If however, you are pitching it out, head left on this ledge and up a second, thinner dike to a second ledge (40' 5.3) with a 2-bolt anchor and belay there.
P8 (5.9-, 25m, bolts + gear) Climb up the thin inclusions (easy climbing) to intercept a wider dike again, passing 4 bolts with a crux near one of them. This is probably 5.9- or easier then up and right past a short easy crack/flake move to a ledge. If you are combining pitches, you will continue on the next pitch to the next ledge to run a 68 meter pitch and stop at a mid-pitch ledge on that one too. Again, this combination of pitches as described will turn the top half into 3 pitches total, all on good ledges.
P9 (5.6, 40m, 1 gear (or not) + 1 bolt): Continue up and right on easy territory to a second ledge. If combing pitches and you cane from the 2 trees ledge, stop here for a final pitch after. If you are pitching this out into 10 as per the latest book, continue up, then up and right, heading for a shallow ledge with a 2-bolt belay that you can see far right under the roof above that contains the final pitches. If desired, head up and then up and right, passing a single bolt by a 5.6 move to reach the 2-bolt belay... Well, regardless, with a 60M rope, you can make the final bit from the trees on the ledge mid-pitch, and I think the belay is a bit out of the way regardless and would skip it.
P10 (5.10-, 40-60m, bolts + gear) From where ever you belayed, look up, then up and left. Start from the 2 bolt belay and head up and left on a ramp and crack (small narrow cams can be tricky) and head up into the crack below the huge roof above. If you belayed from eh large ledge with trees, clip the bolt on P9 with a long sling and never go right to the belay, head directly up and left into the roof, noting another bolt you are headed for. Place a .75 or 1" cam, then a 1.25 cam which may be a little less than perfect, but add up to good pro, then stand up tall on an insecure stance to clip the bolt. Pull a few reachy moves (hard if below 5'8" I suspect) and get into a horizontal under the roof. Head left out under this for perhaps a 40 foot span, placing some 1-2.5" cams into blocky slots and cracks on the way, This is a real calf-burner and needs to be dispensed with quickly to avoid pumping out on the hand on the clings, or the feet on the crystals you smear on. Turn out left beyond the roof and onto the summit none-too-soon. The huge rock up and slight left is loose and balanced in dirt. It moves if you step on it and I would not trust it for a sling-belay, so arrange an anchor on a nearby tree.
To descend, move up and right to join the summit trail downward, which will take ~ 1 hour.
I should note that there is a PG13 section on that last pitch unless you have narrow cams that fit into the crack. I found BD cams too wide to be confidence inspiring (purple and grey) so take TCU's aliens or whatever else has a narrower profile for pieces below 1.5"