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Echelon Wall Rock Climbing

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Routes in Echelon Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ultimate Everything, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Upper Echelon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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GPS:	49.6867, -123.135 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Tony B on Jul 5, 2009
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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

The Echelon Wall is a slightly less distinct area of the chief than some others. It is above the Apron, and is more or less anything left of the South Gully (and thus the Squamish Buttress) but Right of the Sheriff's Badge. 2 lines are on this wall, The Ultimate Everything and Echelon. the former is a modern and popular 5.10 to 5.11 climb, and the latter an obscure moderate free climb with some aid thrown in.
The wall is lower angle than much of the chief and so it has quite some bit of scrambling, dirt and trees. It also receives more sunshine than other walls and the sun peaks over the summit and down on the wall earlier, due to the lower angle. Expect some sun on the upper wall around noon in July.

Getting There

Several routes can be used to access the Echelon area, but to be concise, most anything summiting the Apron will reach a trail that will lead you there.
Once on the apron, pick up a trail that leads up and left, and which after one possible 'false start (blocked off by a log) if approaching from Rock On, branches leftward from the main trail to the Squamish buttress and heads left on a well-traveled trail for perhaps 500 meters more.
You will pass along some fixed ropes through the exposed dirt slopes, and ducking under a series of small roofs until you think
"That must be 'the roof' he was talking about" and pop out on the other side to see a single belay bolt near the base of the climb. Start here for The Ultimate Everything...