Upper Echelon
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6867, -123.135 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 578 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brent M on Aug 24, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Overall the route doesn't see much traffic. Most pitches have a fair bit of greenery. Most stations are bolted or trees. Variations are possible to skip pitches by detouring on Ultimate Everything.
Pitch 1 (5.8 / 10a): Walk 15m past start of Ultimate everything. 5.8 variation start with bolt out right, trending left to a crack, then back right to bolted slab (2 bolts) trending up and left to a spacious ledge. The 10a variation starts with the diagonal crack.
Pitch 2 (10b): Stem up corner past a bolt and continue up finger crack. Nearing the treeline there is a bolt out right to tree'd ledge. Continue up fixed line for next pitch.
Pitch 3 (10d): Hike 10m left to ledge at base of crescent shaped crack. Climb it with increasing difficulty and disappearing holds, mantle, continue past bolt up thin corner crack to a ledge. Crux is easily aided, nut is loose. (4 bolts)
Pitch 4 (5.9): start up corner and break right before the thin dihedral. Undercling around the right to a fixed pin, move up to a bolt and committing moves to gain the treeline.
Pitch 5 (10a): Walk left for 30m to short handcrack in corner. Continue up thin crack, pulling the lip to awkward finger crack and dirty mantles gain the treeline.
Pitch 6 (10c): Walk 70m left to steep left trending crack. Gain a ledge then follow slab to a flake before turning the lip of the bulge. Anchor 5m back.
Pitch 7 (5.8): Gain ledge by using fixed line and walk left to belay bolt. Continue up bolted slab / broken cracks to ledge.
Pitch 8 (5.7): Past a bolt to discontinuous hand/finger cracks to the top. Belay off tree and continue up slope to second peak.
Walk off.



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