Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown, 2006
Page Views: 1,077 total · 9/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 5, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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First pitch is (5.7R) light gray/white slab for one pitch on the right side center of the central slab heading for the big green rock slab opening. Then 800 ft of seldom a bolt and a fixed pin or trad placement is done at 5.0 to 5.5 simu-climbing for quickness, until the 120ft face/slab is reached. Climb this (3 bolts 5-10a or 7 bolts 5-10d). The rock was referred to as being immaculate to climb on the entire distance.


[Admin. NOTE: In e-mail with the submitter, after the COMMENT to Chris was made, Bradley is certain that this route is on what I've chosen to call the "Left Slab" and not on the "Main Slab". Subsequent investigations showed at least 2 old (rusty bolt heads) 3/8" bolts on the steep, white slab about middle of the cliff. [as shown on photo, and better shown on the photo for the AREA annotated by the "Chinos"]

Bradley White's posting continues: I no longer know where this route starts. I believe it is on the slab west of the central slab. Since its been repeated I won't leave what I wrote. I believe it is all wrong. Sorry. I read a description of this route and assumed it was on this central slab.

Start at the base of the slab wherever it appears steep enough to do 5-7. Far spaced bolts. Continue up the very easy slab for thousand or so feet trailing a rope simultaneous climbing. Climb 5.10 head wall above slab. Recommended to rappel down this route. It top is thick pine forested. Vaguely go down where they have gone before, rappelling down 1100ft to the start of the slab

Admin NOTE: After reaching the base of the slab via the approach path, hike up right approx. 50-75 yds to where one can traverse left out on a ledge system that, if followed to the upper end would lead to the mid-tree ledge.
START: On white slab directly below an old bolt about 50 ft up. (See photo(s))


anchored bolts, pins, trad. gear


Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
Found this route searching for :lost in the sun"! It was a fun climb worth doing!! Aug 21, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Bradley where is this route? is it to the right or left of A Bit Short? Sep 9, 2013
bradley white
bradley white   Bend
Not sure anymore. I belief it is on the slab west of this central slab. I have climbed the slab but not the head wall. Jan 31, 2014
chris magness
chris magness  
No more spicey than other routes in this area, Bradley's description isn't too far off: just right of A Bit Short, [Admin's NOTE 10-5-15: see further COMMENTs...Bore Tide is NOT on the "Lost in the Sun"/"A Bit Short" slab.] follow bolts through a white streak and expext to simul climb after the first pitch. Head toward 1 o'clock and an aesthetic head wall. The 10a version is extremy soft.. felt 5.8+ to me tops (leading in approach shoes). The 10d appears to check in at the 10 grade, but probably toward the easier end of the spectrum. If climbing the 8+ variation, stop at a bolt just after the headwall. Belay and rap from here (I left a biner), otherwise you'll be slaughtered with rope drag and poor communication with your second. The harder variation leads to trees.

Decent is easiest via a new (as of yet undocumented) route straight down, bring 2 60 meter ropes.

Overall, good situational climbing on bullet, glacial polished slab. Aug 25, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
I am pretty sure from what I've read (here, and on NECLIMBS.com, especially the APPROACH described in "NE",) that this climb is on the big slab 600 +/- yds (like 1/3 mile) to the west (i.e. the uphill direction in the notch) of the slab that has "A Bit Short" and "Lost in the Sun". You may have gotten onto the climb "The Dharma Initiative" [5.8] which IS on this "Main Slab" and just right of "A Bit Too Short", with one of the 5.8 sections at the very top. See the "IME Brad White's" topo of the slab. I think this topo used to be on NECLIMBS, but last time I was there the "link" didn't go through.
Bob Hall NH Admin. Sep 25, 2015
chris magness
chris magness  
Bradley's comment is gone! Aside from some name and location confusion, it was accurate.

My previous comment has a fairly good description of the route, headwall, and grading. A Bit Short, however, is on the Lost in the Sun slab.

I realize my grade suggestion is indicative of a different route. The headwall is far too featured to climb at 10a through that area, but may have felt stiffer to to the FA bolting on lead. Regardless, the route is worth a visit as the situation and rock are spectacular. Sep 30, 2015