Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 689 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ming on Aug 2, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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This is a variation to "Candyland" that starts on "The Wave" for 2 pitches and then stays left and continue up "Candyland". We feel it makes for a much more natural line and doesn't change the grade much. We did it in 7 + 1 pitches (more on the "+1" in a moment).

I would recommend just doing the 7 pitches and then rap off, unless you are ready for adventure in a vertical forest. It becomes vertical bushwacking mountaineering at its best(worst?)

Pitch 1 - 5.8 200+ feet. Start on P1 of "The Wave". It is located on the left most side along the slab - you have to hike up left from the base of the slab off of the approach trail to about 60-100 feet or so up in the gully separating Chinos slab from Bore Tide. If you look hard enough you will see a bolt right on the slab to protect establishing one's self on the slab from the bushes below. Got up and there is some natural pro to 5 more bolts. The crux is right at the 5th bolt and is well protected. 6 bolts total 200+ feet to a bolted anchor. 60 meter will ALMOST NOT reach - it's super close!

Pitch 2 - 5.6? 230+ feet. Start from the bolted anchor and just go straight up the slab following 3 bolts. It's mostly low angle (5.3? 5.2?) to a single 5.6 move. 60 meter rope WILL NOT reach the tree ledge and we simul-climbed to avoid any shenanigans.

Pitch 3 - the crux is at the start and ends lower angle. Not much pro but after 5.5 start it's mostly an easy steep hike. 190 feet to a tree ledge and use the tree as the anchor.

Pitch 4 - From the ledge go up and right past the bushiness that is in front of you. Then go straight up. Route finding can be tricky here - use the beta pics for reference. Tricams works on this pitch for pro. Again pretty run out but super easy. 5.2 170 feet or so.

At the top of the pitch move the belay station about 50 feet to the right through a "subway" tunnel. See the beta photos for reference.

Pitch 5 - there is much route finding here so pay attention. Go up and right past a bushy ledge to a headwall of sorts - it has diagonal as well as horizontal cracks that is completely vegetated. I gardened the pro (BD #1 works quite well in a horizontal after cleaning out the dirt) and it leads to a grassy ledge that has an overlap slab. Go to the middle of that slab and mantle up onto it - it's only like 15-20 feet long and it'll dump you in a gardened grassy ledge at the bottom of a very clean looking slab. Sling the tree there and belay. 170 feet 5.6.

Pitch 6 - go up the clean slab passing a bolt, then aim for the shallow corner above it and use it for pro and follow it up. When the corner peters out there should be another bolt. Exit left to another ledge and belay from a tree. 5.6 2 bolts total 180 feet.

From here there is a "climber's trail" that moves the belay up the tree ledge about 80 feet to a clearing for the next pitch.

Pitch 7 - It's lichen-y and bushy and just not very memorable. 5.6 170 feet. Basically go up and right and through a ledge with bushes, and then up the slab more to a clearing you can spot with a rappel sling tied around a tree that marks the top of the pitch.

From here be forwarned that the climb is basically done. You can rappel from here or if you want to do some adventure climbing/suffering...

300+ feet of bushwack mountaineering awaits. It starts off well enough on a "climber's trail" that's pretty faint that goes up and right. It ends in a lichen-y broken slab. The slab heads back left. Going up the slab doesn't instill confidence with the lichen but it's probably the right way and it leads to some ferns and then into some pine trees. It will deposit you at the left side of the headwalls.

The mythical 8th pitch. If someone actually climbed it, let me know. The headwall looks very impressive, but we spot at least 3 "left leaning ramp" that seem to fit the description. The one the party ahead of us tried was pretty loose and not at all clean rock so they retreated.


Assuming you went to the top
After you rappel or whatever to get back to the base of the headwall, you can bushwack your way down until there is a clearing or go to the climber's right for about 30 yards and you see a dirty slab. You can rap from a tree down the dirty slab, break through the bushes/trees below to more dirty slab - that's where the bushwacking meets up. I don't know if it'll be a clean pull.

We then trended skier's right and then there is another small clearing - we single roped rappelled down the fern and lichen slab into the trees as far as reasonable and then bushwacked going skier's right until we met up with the climber's trail.

We got back to the top of pitch 7 at that point and the rap sling. Did that rap to top of pitch 6. From pitch 6 rap from a tree down past the belay clearing and you'll see a tree with rap rings of pitch 5. Then you move through the "Subway" tunnel and there is rap rings at the top of pitch 4, rap down pitch 4 to the tree ledge of top of pitch 3.

From the top of pitch 3 traverse down about 30 feet to the skier's right (and down) and you should see a rap station there, rap straight and to the climber's left a bit to end up in the trees to the left of the tree ledge on top of pitch 2. DO NOT rap down to the ledge of top of pitch 2 - you'll have to leave a bail beaner if you do and rap from one of the bolts (pitch 2 is 70 meters, so if you can do 70, I say go for it and rap the route). Head skier's right and down a little bit - you may have to bushwack I'm not sure how well the trail is marked - and you'll find a rap station that'll rap into the gully. This is VERY BUSHY/BRANCH-Y so prepare to stomp, use your back, and step on mud as you descend into the gully and go as far down with 2 60s till a flat clearing spot. At this point you are only about 30 or so feet from the start of the route. I would say the final rap is around 150-175 feet.