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Routes in North Face

Balaam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BananarĂȘte S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
BlackWave S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Clean-Up on Aisle 9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Method T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Down on the Pharm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Food S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fantastic Planet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Farenheit 5.11 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gates of Crystal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Bucket Crack T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O-Face, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orange Crimpsicle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Saline Lock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silver Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thursday Afternoon Hooky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tool Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tour de Poudre S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,553 total, 15/month
Shared By: beavs on May 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

The obvious crack system on the right (west) side of the wall. I don't know the history behind this route and I'm not certain about the grade so if anyone knows more about it pass it on. The first pitch follows broken easy ground with climbing that gradually improves to a belay roughly halfway up. Some bushes/vegetation will be encountered down low. There are probably a few options for the belay but there was an old pin at the spot we chose (along with some good pro).

The 2nd pitch follows the nice 5.9 crack that splits the blank, lichen-covered face to the top right side of the wall, then traverses the crack heading out left below the big roof. Continue left on easy ground to reach the black chain achors at the top of Fantastic Voyage. I heard it is possible (and not as hard as it looks) to climb the crack that goes straight up through the far right side of the big roof at the end, but I haven't done it and know nothing more.

Location

The route starts on the northwest corner of the Crystal Wall to the right of Clean-Up on Aisle 9. The entire line is easy to see from below as it is really the only obvious crack system on the wall other than Thursday Afternoon Hooky. 2 60m ropes will reach the ground from the top anchor.

Protection

Standard rack up to around 3".
Brook Wager
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Brook Wager   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Although this impressive trad line needs more traffic, the gear is descent and it's not runout. It looks like it might be as you ascend the headwall, but if you save some small nuts and mid-size cams, you'll be just fine. Scrambling over the bush is a bit awkward, but the position and exposure are quite excellent. The beginning of the true crack (P1) has quite nice climbing and lots of feet. We traversed in from below the sport routes, clipping the lowest bolt and made a pitch out of this, making it 3p, just to cut down on rope drag. Was an interesting start. I had to give it 2 stars, because the position is spectacular. With cleaning and traffic, it'll rise to a 3*. Happy climbing. Nov 2, 2015
Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Fun little adventure climb and a pleasant tour nonetheless. Apr 26, 2012
Patrick Kehoe
Fort Collins
  5.9
Patrick Kehoe   Fort Collins
  5.9
First pitch had some dangerous loose blocks, was steep and well-featured. Second pitch was good, somewhat exposed and sustained, and had thick lichen. Fun moves between troublesome bushes. I too had no desire to traverse left under the roof because: 1) you're at the top. 2) insane lichen/choss out left. Apr 26, 2012
Climbed this route on 4-Sept, and it was dirty and not particularly enjoyable. By the time I made it to the top of the actual crack, I had absolutely no interest in traversing under the big roof, though the traverse did look pretty reasonable after a couple sorta-thin opening moves. I belayed my partner up to the alcove at the top of the crack off of medium cams, and we scrambled to the top of the wall. Walking climber's left will get you to the anchors of Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage). Climbing the face to these anchors probably increases the quality of the route, but after groveling up the mouse and bird shit-filled funky crack and getting inadvertently clipped into a bush with one of my quickdraws, I just didn't really feel like dealing with a traverse pitch.

That said, there is some decent climbing to be had on this route, which is why I gave it one star. The bushes, shit, and muddiness just sort of take away from the more enjoyable sections of climbing. Sep 5, 2009