Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 175 ft (53 m)|
|FA:||Bryan Beavers, '05|
|Page Views:||1,488 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||beavs on May 15, 2009|
|Admins:||James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This 175' pitch goes straight to the top of the wall with very little wandering. The crux is immediately after the 1st bolt (about 30' up where the seam disappears) and gradually eases as the seam reappears. Gear can be found just a few feet above the bolt, but it's tricky to place and the stances are insecure - just punching it to the easier ground was the ticket for me. There is another slightly easier crux up high as you slab your way through the last couple of bolts. It is easy to climb right to the 1st anchor on Fantastic Voyage to split the route into 2 pitches or avoid the top half if desired.
My opinion is that enough natural pro can be found on this line to make it a mixed route. I took a minimalist approach with the bolts and tried to place just enough to make it sane to lead. I'm sure some would disagree with this approach, so let the thread begin.