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Routes in North Face

Balaam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bananarête S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BlackWave S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Clean-Up on Aisle 9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Method T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Down on the Pharm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Food S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fantastic Planet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Farenheit 5.11 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gates of Crystal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Bucket Crack T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O-Face, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orange Crimpsicle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Saline Lock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thursday Afternoon Hooky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tool Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tour de Poudre S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 175 ft
FA: Bryan Beavers, '05
Page Views: 1,025 total · 9/month
Shared By: beavs on May 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Not your typical clip-up to say the least, and possibly deserving of an "R" rating. There is potential for big falls in places, but I wouldn't say it's super dangerous. There is just enough protection and falls should generally be clean air (on my 1st attempt leading it a hold broke when I was topping out and I sailed pretty far without ever hitting the wall - it wouldn't have been so bad except that then I had to lead it again!).

This 175' pitch goes straight to the top of the wall with very little wandering. The crux is immediately after the 1st bolt (about 30' up where the seam disappears) and gradually eases as the seam reappears. Gear can be found just a few feet above the bolt, but it's tricky to place and the stances are insecure - just punching it to the easier ground was the ticket for me. There is another slightly easier crux up high as you slab your way through the last couple of bolts. It is easy to climb right to the 1st anchor on Fantastic Voyage to split the route into 2 pitches or avoid the top half if desired.

Location

Left of Balaam and right of Silver Girl. 1st bolt is visible from the ground if you look closely (about 30' up with a reddish-colored camo hanger). 2 60m ropes required to rap from the top.

Protection

A total of 5 bolts and pro up to about 2". The gear is basically all thin so bring a good assortment of nuts & TCUs. The top third of the route has no pro other than the widely spaced bolts. Shares a chain anchor at the top of the wall with Fantastic Voyage (the chains are painted black, look to the right as you top out).

My opinion is that enough natural pro can be found on this line to make it a mixed route. I took a minimalist approach with the bolts and tried to place just enough to make it sane to lead. I'm sure some would disagree with this approach, so let the thread begin.

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morkel
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
I'm down. I'll bring some rack next time and give it a whirl. Jun 21, 2009
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
I only top roped this self belay, so I can't make real definitive statements. However, I can almost guarantee a fall immediately after either of the cruxes would be nasty, especially the lower crux right off the ledge. I have led Fantastic Voyage, and feel like this route will be a step up. Stout. I wonder how many leads this has had? The climbing is great. Sep 20, 2010
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c/d PG13
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c/d PG13
Great climbing on TR but would be scary after the first bolt and getting to the last on lead. Two more bolts would make it a fun and still heady lead. May 21, 2018
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c/d PG13
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c/d PG13
Great 50m pitch! With Brian’s permission, we added two bolts to the route. It’s still PG-13, and the second crux remains heady. With your belayer on the ground, you need an 80m rope to lower to the intermediate anchors on an Balaam, a 70m will not make it. I used RPs, stoppers, and cams up to a 0.4 Camalot. Be solid on 5.11 or check it out on TR first. May 24, 2018

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