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Routes in North Face

Balaam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BananarĂȘte S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
BlackWave S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Clean-Up on Aisle 9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Method T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Down on the Pharm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Food S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fantastic Planet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Farenheit 5.11 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gates of Crystal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Bucket Crack T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O-Face, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orange Crimpsicle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Saline Lock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silver Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thursday Afternoon Hooky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tool Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tour de Poudre S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: someone knows
Page Views: 7,610 total, 55/month
Shared By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the second bolted route from the right on the Crystal Wall. The first bolted route on the right is Fantastic Voyage which I believe Craig Luebben put up. Tour de Poudre is well-bolted, goes about 100 feet for the first pitch, and has two rap anchors at the top. The first pitch goes around 5.10a/b. The second pitch is a bit shorter and more difficult. The second pitch is also well-bolted, has rap anchors, and goes around 5.12b/c. I am not absolutely sure of these ratings, although I feel they should be close.

Location

This is the second bolted route from the right.

Protection

All you need for pro is quickdraws and a daisy chain, cowtail, etc.

Per Elijah Flenner: a 70 meter does not get you down if you link pitches.

Photos

Chris Kalman
  5.12a
Chris Kalman  
  5.12a
Certainly not as hard as ODK, making it a stretch at 5.12a. B or c would be ludicrous. If you're pushing 5.12-, don't be scared away by the 12b consensus.

I'm 5'5" and didn't find a reachy move on it. Huge feet are everywhere so just walk 'em up if you're short.

The 5.10 section felt hard for 10a, in contrast to the supersoft grade on the upper pitch.

Easily combined in a single pitch, rope drag is minimal.

With a 70, you can climb in a single pitch and lower to first chains and either pull the rope, or belay your second up from that anchor. If you do this option, just be careful - it's a full 70 to reach back down to first chains, and getting lowered off the end from there would be (likely) fatal.

Also, nothing against the first ascentionists who bolted it perfectly and found the best line at the cliff... but still, I think 4 stars is a stretch even for the Poudre. A lot of medium quality 5.10 climbing with one or two V3 moves with a bolt in your face.... Meh, I don't know. Echelon stuff is better, as well as some Palace routes. I'd say worth doing if you're there, but prob not worth a special trip just for this climb. Oct 17, 2017
A 70 meter does not get you down if you link pitches (not really close either). I don't recall the bolt count. May 21, 2016
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
Has anyone done the link-up as one push? Will a 70m get me to the top, then rap down? Total bolt/draw count? Grateful to know what/if folks have experienced. Thanks! - Derek May 17, 2016
Excellent climb but definitely harder for the 5'5" climber. I was not able to clip from the awesome "clipping" stances. Dec 30, 2015
Dan1124
Fort Collins, CO
Dan1124   Fort Collins, CO
If you're planning to only climb the first pitch, I believe it's 11 bolts before the chains. I was thrown off by the "climb past seven bolts..." phrasing in the NOCO guide, and subsequently had to stop and lower off the 8th bolt on my first attempt. Oct 6, 2014
Leo L.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Leo L.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Fantastic route.

P1. Fun, thoughtful movement all the way up. Take your rests when you can get them! I'd put it at 10b range. Just about every type of hold you can find in the canyon.

P2. Awesome crux right at the finish.

Definitely a route that reflects what climbing in the Poudre is all about. Jun 8, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
Did P1 today on-sight. The variety on the route is great! I did some reaching to avoid some hard spots and keep moving, some shorter girls did it after me and I'm sure chose different moves. Off and on pumpy, but enough places to stand for recovery. I'd give it a 10b on average - but you can probably make it a or c depending on how you solve it.

A condition report from 5 days ago said that a bolt was loose, I didn't notice. Ooops? Jun 1, 2012
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
Jon, I think what you were missing at the second to last hold is that it's much easier to go right and use crimps rather than go left into that crack that has the ton of chalk in it. That way it's a 10a to me. Oct 16, 2011
Aaron Martinuzzi
  5.11d
Aaron Martinuzzi  
  5.11d
I remember pitch one climbing a lot like Monstrosity over at the Palace. Blocky, good holds, but no great opportunities for rests, closer to solid 5.10 than 5.10a. The second pitch is definitely thin and sustained, but I'm not sure it warrants a rating as hard as 12c. May 21, 2011
Jon Lachelt
Fort Collins, CO
5.12a/b
Jon Lachelt   Fort Collins, CO
5.12a/b
I'm really surprised to find here and in the NCCC guide that P1 is supposed to be 10a/b. I had just climbed Silver Girl (10c) and felt that was a good rating... I didn't have any trouble with it so I was pleased to see that P1 of TdP was supposed to also be good and well within my ability range. But hit one section of TdP, roughly in the middle where I began to doubt my route finding skills thinking "that's not what I call a 10a move". Then again just a few feet beyond the second to last bolt (I think that's where it was) I hit a section that I thought was surely in the 11 range. I'll have to try it again with fresh eyes... maybe I missed something. Sep 27, 2010
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
 
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
 
Second pitch is 12- climbing to a thin, 12c, show stopper crux at the last bolt. Jun 16, 2010
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
This route is really really good. The first pitch is around a 100 feet or so and comes in at 10a. The second pitch is actually more like 80 feet and is right on at 12b. Climb it! Apr 27, 2008
Nice route - first pitch is really continuous and fun. Didn't do the second pitch but it looks good. Jun 12, 2006