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Routes in North Face

Balaam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarête S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
BlackWave S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Clean-Up on Aisle 9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Method T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Down on the Pharm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Food S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fantastic Planet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Farenheit 5.11 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gates of Crystal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Bucket Crack T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O-Face, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orange Crimpsicle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Saline Lock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silver Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thursday Afternoon Hooky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tool Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tour de Poudre S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Heyliger, Hand 2007
Page Views: 3,206 total · 28/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Another ledgy route to the right of the multi-pitch routes on the Main Wall. Utilizes good face holds around the rotten crack that runs up the wall, as well as a couple holds in the crack. Bear right through more challenging terrain after the last bolt to the anchors.

This route is a little bit dirty, probably since it doesn't see traffic due to the fact that the bolts disappear as you look up the line from the ground. Also of note, the middle third of the starting ledge seems loose, and there's a hollow flake to the left of said ledge that is easily, and prudently, avoided.

Location

This route climbs right on top of the line of bolts to the left of Clean-Up on Aisle 9, utilizing the crack primarily for pro.

Protection

4 bolts.

The FAist recommends gear in this order following the second bolt: #0.75 Camalot – #3 Camalot – green Alien – bolt – medium Stopper – bolt – #2 Camalot.

My first time up I had no gear and found the 2nd to 3rd bolt runout scary but easy, and the rest of the route comfortable. The second time up I placed a #3 Friend in an obviously cleaned out crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and felt comfy, if not a little thrilled, the rest of the way up.

This shares anchors with Clean-Up on Aisle 9.

Photos

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This was my first lead ever, and the runout between 2 and 3 definitely had me a bit nervous, but there are plenty of solid foot and hand placements there. So it's not a huge issue. The previous comment by Ryan about leading the route next to it and toproping this one is definitely a good suggestion for anybody a bit shaky on lead (especially since if you do fall near the top of the runout, there's a good chance you'll rack out on the ledge).

Get there early in the morning to avoid the afternoon sun. Jul 9, 2017
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.8
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.8
Fun, little mixed route. Placed a #3 BD cam lower and #1 cam up top. May 2, 2017
JimLaven  
 
Prevalence of jugs and ledges makes this route a fun, easy warm-up. I got so nervous about the run-out between bolts #2 and #3 that I traversed over right and borrowed a couple from Clean-up before returning left. Would recommend use of nuts or cams; probably a good route to begin graduating from sport onto trad climbing. Sep 20, 2015
Brook Wager
Fort Collins, CO
 
Brook Wager   Fort Collins, CO
 
I recommend bringing a 2-3" cam for the crack after the 2nd bolt.

Poudre Canyon climbers: call me! just moved to town and looking for new partners! seven2zero4zero9seven66one Aug 1, 2015
Ryan Barlow
  5.7+ PG13
Ryan Barlow  
  5.7+ PG13
For the most part, this route is quite enjoyable with big holds for feet and hands. One or two fun moves at the start to get going that can test your strength, but then the next 40 feet of climbing are smooth sailing, about a 5.7 I'd say due to the huge grips for your hands and feet the whole way up the crack. At the top, start going right up to the anchor shared with Cleanup on Aisle 9, and the moves start getting trickier making this a 5.8 route. I lead climbed Aisle 9 first and then top roped this route so as to avoid the runout between the bolts. Nov 17, 2011
Nick Broeder
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.8
Nick Broeder   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.8
It was a great route for sure; looking up and not seeing a full line a bolts didn't stop me from leading it. I had no idea there wasn't a bolt there. I got to the rotten crack and finally realized there was no bailing from there. Had to keep going. It's exciting clipping that bolt after looking at a groundfall for at least a couple feet. Nov 2, 2011
mattnorville Norv  
  5.8
This route is sick. Bolts where no gear is able to be placed, great ethical mixed line. Sep 16, 2010
Cleaned a loose handhold from the start of the route today, other than that things are looking pretty solid on these three lines - they've cleaned up quite nicely and offer really enjoyable, steep moderate climbing. Mar 30, 2010
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
Something between the second and third bolt would be nice, as well as a piece (# 2 Cam.?) after the last bolt. Not too bad a route, follows a bit of a natural line. Jun 21, 2009