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Routes in North Face

Balaam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BananarĂȘte S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
BlackWave S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Clean-Up on Aisle 9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Method T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Down on the Pharm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Food S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fantastic Planet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Farenheit 5.11 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gates of Crystal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Bucket Crack T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O-Face, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orange Crimpsicle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Saline Lock S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silver Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thursday Afternoon Hooky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tool Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tour de Poudre S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,854 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

I really enjoyed the first pitch of this climb. It goes 5.10c and has a great crux move about 50 feet off the ground. It is very pumpy (as all the climbs here seem to be) and a really respectable length. The second pitch goes 5.12a/b? This route is also bolted very well.

Location

This route is the bolted route just to the left of Fantastic Planet.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

derek peavey
  5.12a/b
derek peavey  
  5.12a/b
This is the beta I used on the F.A. 10 yrs ago: the climb goes straight up the bolt line. Start matched in the underclings, bump your left hand to a hold with a thumb-crimp, sidepull thing. Kind of like you're holding a lighter but smaller. Then bump your right hand to a brick pinch just above the underclings. Get your hips up a little and bump your left hand to a good half finger in-cut crimp. Tall people probably could bump straight to this hold from the underclings. Then get your right foot on a sharp crystal point cluster thing. Then bump your right hand to a sharp crimp then bump your right again to a better crimp and then power up to the softball jug with your left and its 5.8 to the top.

Hopefully this helps. It been along time since I've done the route. The crux is probably around V5/6. Sep 30, 2014
I'm curious about the original style in which the crux was done on this route? I tried to go straight up the bolt line a couple times and ended up downclimbing each time. Instead I opted to do a very technical rightward traverse on underclings to a jug (powerful 5.12a-ish) before traversing back left to the upper bolt. I tried to follow straight up the bolt line on top-rope after lowering off the top and found it to be heinously sharp. The rightward undercling traverse has a cool sequence and is still plenty challenging for those looking to avoid the heinous crimps. Sep 30, 2014
Yes, I agree do you go straight over the bolt line or follow the underclings straight through looks possible but in the hard 12s. Just wandering. Jan 15, 2012
Spent a bit of time trying to figure out the crux. Given the nubs and small features we found, we were confused at the 12- rating on the second pitch. Seemed more difficult. Has a hold broken or something changed on this route? Jul 19, 2009
First pitch felt like 5.10a/b and was fun. Sep 22, 2008
Dylan Kuhn
Reno, NV
 
Dylan Kuhn   Reno, NV
 
There's a route to the left that looks like it could be new. Jul 2, 2007