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Routes in Leaning Tower/Tombstone Wall

Capstone V2 5+
Easy Arete V0 4
Footstone V2 5+
Headstone V4 6B
Leaning Tower South Face V0 4 PG13
Left Crack V0 4
Right Crack V0 4
Textured Face V0 4
Textured Face Right V0 4
Thin Crack V1 5
Tombstone Classic V2 5+
Tombstone Direct V5 6C
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,270 total, 12/month
Shared By: Remo on May 18, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Start on crescent holds in the middle of face. Head up and left for a tricky finish.

Location

Center of Tombstone wall.

Protection

Pads

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
James, I am pretty sure the direct was done a very long time ago. We use to spend hours bouldering and swilling here doing every possible variation our twisted little minds could dream up and then some circa mid 70,s to early 80,s. This was before EZ showed up at the lake. And we were pretty sure most of our "brilliant" variations had already been done....think John Gill and a few other strong climbers who pulled down on these long before us. Thanks for posting the other tombstone stuff brings back some great memories. Peace and now puke! May 9, 2016
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
I think this is often confused with Tombstone Classic which goes up to the good edges just left of the crack and was first climbed by Gill in the 50's or 60's.

Tombstone Direct goes up and left, avoiding the good edges to the right and the hand crack to the left. The direct is a typical DL eliminate deal, you know, do the first third of a classic, then do two contrived moves to avoid the easy part and then rejoin the classic. I think EZ did the direct first, but I'm not 100% sure - maybe somebody who was around during that era can shed some light.

I remember making good progress on it back in an afternoon around 2000 or 2001, and feeling like it was on the border of doable. So, V5 is probably about right, but I wasn't an avid boulderer then (or now) either and "V" grades weren't really 100% established at that point, so who knows.

I hope this and the addition of Tombstone Classic clears up some of the confusion. May 9, 2016
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
V5
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
V5
To those who've climbed this and seen Ian's movie: how does this line compare to what he calls "Tombstone," giving it V2? For me I did the same start, and eliminated a couple jugs he used up high (high crack and also jug sidepull out right, if I remember). I'll have to get back on this to see if I was missing something, but those first couple of moves sure seemed a fair bit harder than V2 at the time. Aug 3, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
V5
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
V5
So I think I did this problem, but I'm not entirely convinced. I started on the crescent crimps and headed straight up for a few feet but then cut slightly right, using holds near to the right crack but never actually using the crack, and topped out between the left crack and the corner. Aside from staying between the cracks and not using the right corner, is anything off? Aug 25, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Yo Dobbe, in Eric's guide this was given a V5. I've done it moving more right and it felt like solid 5, but I think Eric's line goes left and I agree it seems harder. May 28, 2010
Dobbe  
Has any one done this? I remember getting on it like 6 or 7 years ago with Shoe guy and him having a hard time with the top I think It might be a little harder then 5? May 28, 2010