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Tombstone Direct

V5, Boulder,  Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > Devil's Lake Bo… > E Bluff > E Bluff S Face > 08. E Rampart > 04. Leaning Tower/Tom…

Description

Start on crescent holds in the middle of face. Head up and left for a tricky finish.

Location

Center of Tombstone wall.

Protection

Pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbs up middle of face.
[Hide Photo] Climbs up middle of face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dobbe Dobbe
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Has any one done this? I remember getting on it like 6 or 7 years ago with Shoe guy and him having a hard time with the top I think It might be a little harder then 5? May 28, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  V5
[Hide Comment] Yo Dobbe, in Eric's guide this was given a V5. I've done it moving more right and it felt like solid 5, but I think Eric's line goes left and I agree it seems harder. May 28, 2010
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
V5
[Hide Comment] So I think I did this problem, but I'm not entirely convinced. I started on the crescent crimps and headed straight up for a few feet but then cut slightly right, using holds near to the right crack but never actually using the crack, and topped out between the left crack and the corner. Aside from staying between the cracks and not using the right corner, is anything off? Aug 25, 2010
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
V5
[Hide Comment] To those who've climbed this and seen Ian's movie: how does this line compare to what he calls "Tombstone," giving it V2? For me I did the same start, and eliminated a couple jugs he used up high (high crack and also jug sidepull out right, if I remember). I'll have to get back on this to see if I was missing something, but those first couple of moves sure seemed a fair bit harder than V2 at the time. Aug 3, 2011
James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] I think this is often confused with Tombstone Classic which goes up to the good edges just left of the crack and was first climbed by Gill in the 50's or 60's.

Tombstone Direct goes up and left, avoiding the good edges to the right and the hand crack to the left. The direct is a typical DL eliminate deal, you know, do the first third of a classic, then do two contrived moves to avoid the easy part and then rejoin the classic. I think EZ did the direct first, but I'm not 100% sure - maybe somebody who was around during that era can shed some light.

I remember making good progress on it back in an afternoon around 2000 or 2001, and feeling like it was on the border of doable. So, V5 is probably about right, but I wasn't an avid boulderer then (or now) either and "V" grades weren't really 100% established at that point, so who knows.

I hope this and the addition of Tombstone Classic clears up some of the confusion. May 9, 2016
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co
[Hide Comment] James, I am pretty sure the direct was done a very long time ago. We use to spend hours bouldering and swilling here doing every possible variation our twisted little minds could dream up and then some circa mid 70,s to early 80,s. This was before EZ showed up at the lake. And we were pretty sure most of our "brilliant" variations had already been done....think John Gill and a few other strong climbers who pulled down on these long before us. Thanks for posting the other tombstone stuff brings back some great memories. Peace and now puke! May 9, 2016