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Routes in North Shore

Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: Terry K.
Page Views: 273 total, 3/month
Shared By: Remo on May 18, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Just left of Jameson Arete, climb up using both aretes.

Location

Just right of Jameson Arete.

Protection

Pads Spotter

Photos

James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V1-2
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V1-2
I'll have to give that a try next time I'm out. This is such a good contribution Terry, the thin feet up high are attention getting to say the least! Nov 22, 2017
Nice video James. Have you done the sit start? Nov 21, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V1-2
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V1-2
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V1-2
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V1-2
CCase,

You can use "both aretes" - so you can use the left side of the crack, but not the right. In other words, no jamming the crack or stemming across the crack to the right wall. As the discussion above indicates, it's pretty heavily sandbagged at V1.

Cheers,
James Mar 30, 2015
CCas
Chicago, IL
 
CCas   Chicago, IL
 
Might be a stupid question, but is the large crack on or only the faces of either arete? Mar 29, 2015
Thanks for making an old man feel stronger as I age! It could be harder that V1 but I didn't intentionally sandbag it. I have it so wired now that it is hard for me to judge but it is easier for me that Big Bud. Arete's are fair game and feet are small on the face. Comparing it to other V1's at the north shore it probably is more difficult. Maybe it is a V2.

To me Oil can is a V0. I down climb it when I do the problems nearby. Jun 19, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V1-2
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V1-2
Maybe I am missing something, being too strict (nothing outside of the aretes), or maybe because it's a little tenuous/committing and I didn't have spotters, but it felt really hard - of course maybe I am just weak.

As for Oil Can being V0, I think that depends on how far you take Jameson before you bail into it. Emily's Naptime would qualify as feeling harder than any other V1 I've done anywhere. Maybe I am missing something.

Regardless, it's fun, and the feet are very "Lake-like." Jun 13, 2014
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  V2
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  V2
Yeah to be honest Oil Can is probably V0, but this is still very sandbagged. I say almost V3. Jun 12, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V1-2
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V1-2
Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this felt really hard. Oil Can was much easier. Jun 12, 2014
TravisK
Phoenix, AZ
 
TravisK   Phoenix, AZ
 
if you don't cover it well, that rock in the LZ will totally wrench your ankle if you hop off this problem. Yes, even under your pad... Aug 21, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V2+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V2+
For me, this climb has always been harder than Big Bud. May 31, 2011
I did the FA of this in '99. My daughter Emily was born in January and when I was on paternity leave I would take her bouldering during her naptime. She would sleep happily in her car seat/carrier out of the landing zone. Hence the name "Emily's Naptime". May 19, 2009