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Routes in North Shore

Type: Boulder
FA: Paul Jones
Page Views: 1,076 total, 10/month
Shared By: Remo on Sep 18, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up arete using anything you can, very tricky for the grade.

Location

North Shore, using left arete of Emily's Naptime.

Protection

Pads and spotters

Photos

Terry Kieck  
 
Straight up the arete. Holds on the left face are off. Hands stay on the arete as you work upward with a fair amount of body tension. There used to be a nice flake inches right of the arete up 8'-9' high (one can still see where it once was) that was useful but now its in my garage. I had to work out a different sequence but I felt the grade was the same. Apr 5, 2012
Does this go straight up the arete the whole way, or does it move left onto the ledges on the face? Apr 4, 2012
Patrick Bodien
Boston, MA
Patrick Bodien   Boston, MA
The face that is right of the dehidral/crack that is to the right of Jameson Arete. In the photo of vince that is posted for Jameson arete you can see the profile of the Face on the right edge of the frame. I believe it is west facing. Jul 17, 2010
Terry Kieck  
 
Are you refering to the south facing face of Emily's naptime which shares the arete of Jameson Arete? or the tall face adjacent to those two problems that faces west? Either way, they have both been done. The face only of Emily's naptime is V3ish but was not given a new name, its just a contrived varition. In the original guide 'get on it' the west facing wall was not given a name and came in at V1. It has since been done with a start start which ups the grade. Jun 27, 2010
Patrick Bodien
Boston, MA
Patrick Bodien   Boston, MA
Does anyone know if the face to the right of jameson arete is an established problem and what it is? Stand start, slopey mantle, top out, face only. It's a fun V3ish. Jun 25, 2010
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
 
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
 
This area is properly known as the "Oil Can" due to the outrageous quantities of Foster's Special Bitter consumed here. Jul 11, 2009
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
FA Paul Jones; He finally sent after the proper amount of lubrication! Feb 28, 2009