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Routes in Cactus Flower East

Anarchist's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana Split T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Sunday T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cat Claw T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fabulous Fables T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Facist Pig T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King of Pain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Live Oak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mixed Feelings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystical Adventures T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Palo Verde T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pam's Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Political Asylum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pomey Direct T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Cams and a Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wish You Were Here S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Worm T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zenolith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Chuck Hill
Page Views: 1,015 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ryan Myers on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Crux is after the crack at the top

Protection

Friends, Medium to Large Nuts

Photos

apoet
AZ
  5.10
apoet   AZ
  5.10
Just FYI if you bring your big cams to try Y-Crack you can probably find a place to put a 5/6 C4 on this route (down low). Oct 8, 2016
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
I attempted a lead on this today with a left exit variation that joins the top of Banana Crack and Mystical Adventures. While challenging at about 5.8, this makes for an aesthetically pleasing climb--and the Black Sunday anchors make for an easy descent. Aug 15, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Brian is correct--the face finish is unprotected and offers up multiple moves of bouldery 10b. A fall would probably be painful, possibly dangerous. Correct this ahead of time by setting an anchor first that extends over the lip and which you can clip from your last rest stance before making the moves (this is where a bolt would normally be placed if this climb did not happen to be at a place like Pinnacle :) ).

Crack portion takes #2-4 Camalots only. Dec 27, 2010
Brian Boyd
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Brian Boyd   Kowloon, Hong Kong  
This route get an 'R' rating for the unprotected upper crux section.

Bolt anchors have recently appeared at the top of this route. Apr 11, 2009