Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 33.733, -111.865 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,881 total · 93/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

Description

Cactus Flower East is a low-slung wall of cracks and face climbs located to the north and a little east of the main Peak area. There are a number of routes here on crystalline desert granite. The classic testpiece of the area is the ultra-thin King of Pain.

There are several sets of anchors at the top of these routes and there is a side trail to the far right of the rock faces making this a Top Rope area as well as Trad.

Getting There

Hike up the tourist trail from the visitor's center (looks like a big smooth dirt golf cart path). Continue on past the sign marking the climber's trail to the peak area and the trail flattens and drops a little bit. A spur climber's trail heads north in the direction of Cactus Flower East.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cactus Flower East

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Live Oak
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Two Cams and a Jam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Banana Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Facist Pig
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Zenolith
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
King of Pain
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
Black Sunday
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Wish You Were Here
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Fabulous Fables
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Live Oak
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Two Cams and a Jam
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Banana Crack
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Facist Pig
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Zenolith
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
King of Pain
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Sunday
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Wish You Were Here
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fabulous Fables
 11
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Cactus Flower East »

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Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
This is a great place to practice placing gear because the climbs are so short and have a whole lot of options for placements. Nov 24, 2007
MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Worth noting that in the last year there have been about 10 bolts added for anchors at the top of the lower tier, nice for the TR enthusiasts.

-Mac, PPG Dec 10, 2012
Tim Heid   AZ
This is my favorite wall in the Phoenix area to Top-rope solo.

The climbs are short- but the proximity to Phoenix, the short hike, the easy access to the top, and the many bolted anchors make it really easy to do all 18-20 climbs in this area in just an hour or two. Jan 2, 2015