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Routes in Cactus Flower East

Anarchist's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana Split T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Sunday T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat Claw T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fabulous Fables T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Facist Pig T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King of Pain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Live Oak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mixed Feelings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystical Adventures T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Palo Verde T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pam's Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Political Asylum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pomey Direct T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Cams and a Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wish You Were Here S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Worm T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zenolith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 33.733, -111.865 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,889 total · 77/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Cactus Flower East is a low-slung wall of cracks and face climbs located to the north and a little east of the main Peak area. There are a number of routes here on crystalline desert granite. The classic testpiece of the area is the ultra-thin King of Pain.

There are several sets of anchors at the top of these routes and there is a side trail to the far right of the rock faces making this a Top Rope area as well as Trad.

Getting There

Hike up the tourist trail from the visitor's center (looks like a big smooth dirt golf cart path). Continue on past the sign marking the climber's trail to the peak area and the trail flattens and drops a little bit. A spur climber's trail heads north in the direction of Cactus Flower East.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cactus Flower East

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Live Oak
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Two Cams and a Jam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Banana Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Zenolith
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
King of Pain
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Wish You Were Here
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Black Sunday
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Fabulous Fables
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Live Oak
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Two Cams and a Jam
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Banana Crack
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Zenolith
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
King of Pain
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Wish You Were Here
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Sunday
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Fabulous Fables
 8
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
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Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
This is a great place to practice placing gear because the climbs are so short and have a whole lot of options for placements. Nov 24, 2007
MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Worth noting that in the last year there have been about 10 bolts added for anchors at the top of the lower tier, nice for the TR enthusiasts.

-Mac, PPG Dec 10, 2012
Tim Heid   AZ
This is my favorite wall in the Phoenix area to Top-rope solo.

The climbs are short- but the proximity to Phoenix, the short hike, the easy access to the top, and the many bolted anchors make it really easy to do all 18-20 climbs in this area in just an hour or two. Jan 2, 2015

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