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Routes in Cactus Flower East

Anarchist's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Banana Split T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Sunday T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cat Claw T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fabulous Fables T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Facist Pig T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King of Pain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Live Oak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mixed Feelings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystical Adventures T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Palo Verde T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pam's Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Political Asylum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pomey Direct T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Cams and a Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wish You Were Here S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Worm T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zenolith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chuck Hill, Pat Reineke, 1986
Page Views: 1,292 total · 8/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice crack route at the grade. The crack pinches off at the top, so you might not be getting those bomber pieces in the last ten feet. Wide crack start with face holds, then jam straight up, using pockets in the upper half. Ten feet from the top, the crack is no more and you have to face climb the rest of the way. Meticulous face climbing will get you there!

Location

Crack system running up the wall just right of King Of Pain face. Just left-center of the lower CFE tier. A right-arching crack (Banana Crack) starts at the same place, but Two Cams goes straight up.

Protection

Assortment of cams from 1/2" up to #3 Camalot. The last good hole for pro is #1 Camalot size. Bring a #3.5 and #4 Camalot for belay pro in crack running left of the top.

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Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Great route, a must-do if at CFE. Pro is great, tricky to get that last piece the pod as that's also your best hand hold! Feb 2, 2013
Scott Frankel
  5.9
Scott Frankel  
  5.9
Way fun route and definitely worth doing. Great hand jamming, but tape up those hands first. Dec 7, 2013
Brendan Cathcart
Bishop, CA
Brendan Cathcart   Bishop, CA
I found nuts WAY more useful than cams. Particularly the finger section. Jan 5, 2015
Zachary Loman
Phoenix, AZ
 
Zachary Loman   Phoenix, AZ
 
Really fun. The best route at Cactus Flower East that we climbed. One off-width move to start, a few hand jams, a few good finger locks as it thins out toward the top, ending with two really nice pods Jan 23, 2018

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