Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,140 total · 18/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raven Closure & Parking Details

Description

Climb the obvious wide crack up the front of the Central Buttress. Getting off the ground requires tricky footwork or a tree stem before getting to fun laybacking and hand jams over a bulge. Continue up the wide crack, protecting in small horizontals, to just below the tree. Bust left around the corner to a bolted anchor (runout, but easy) or climb past the tree (funky gear here) and over the top. Belay off a good tree about 30' back from the lip.

Location

About 100' to the right of the stone staircase, this route lies just past the large rotted dead tree on the ground.

Protection

Single rack to 4".

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
 
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
 
Climb looks awesome, but it is very dirty. May just be the season and or due to the large amount of rainfall lately. We did the finish to the R of the tree which is protectable but dirty, possibly less traveled. Try it in the Fall, it will likely be better. Sep 7, 2011
losbill
  5.8
losbill  
  5.8
Getting off the ground without stemming the tree seemed really hard. I stepped to the right, gained the good horizontal and used it to hand-traverse left to the bottom of the crack. Aug 10, 2014
MatthewH  
 
Great climb! There are two bolts (I think as the sport route to the right crosses to shared anchors) leading to the chains that can be clipped, although gear is available. Be careful - loose rock seems to gather in the holds at your feet just after you pull the bulge. Jun 18, 2018