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Routes in Mormon Hollow

1. Unnamed route (left side) AKA Hang Ten S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
14. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
15. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
15a. Direct start to 15 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
19 - Unknown slab 4 S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardiac Bypass Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chimney, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch the Slick S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Power Dive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Megaflake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Slab 2 S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Slab 3 S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zizag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,007 total · 18/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Access Issue: Raven Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Climb the obvious wide crack up the front of the Central Buttress. Getting off the ground requires tricky footwork or a tree stem before getting to fun laybacking and hand jams over a bulge. Continue up the wide crack, protecting in small horizontals, to just below the tree. Bust left around the corner to a bolted anchor (runout, but easy) or climb past the tree (funky gear here) and over the top. Belay off a good tree about 30' back from the lip.

Location [Suggest Change]

About 100' to the right of the stone staircase, this route lies just past the large rotted dead tree on the ground.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single rack to 4".

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
 
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
 
Climb looks awesome, but it is very dirty. May just be the season and or due to the large amount of rainfall lately. We did the finish to the R of the tree which is protectable but dirty, possibly less traveled. Try it in the Fall, it will likely be better. Sep 7, 2011
losbill
  5.8
losbill  
  5.8
Getting off the ground without stemming the tree seemed really hard. I stepped to the right, gained the good horizontal and used it to hand-traverse left to the bottom of the crack. Aug 10, 2014
MatthewH  
 
Great climb! There are two bolts (I think as the sport route to the right crosses to shared anchors) leading to the chains that can be clipped, although gear is available. Be careful - loose rock seems to gather in the holds at your feet just after you pull the bulge. 1 day ago

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