Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 482 total · 4/month
Shared By: Steven Reneau on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Up the loose dihedral and out the right side of a roof via offwidth.

South Side beta photo and Beverly both show this route going right and joining Headjam 1/2-2/3 of the way up, but if you stay left through the off-width crux (maybe 5.9+ or 5.10-, good knee jam possible if you have smallish legs), you can parallel Headjam to near the top as shown by Jackson.

Location

Route #19 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in
South side of the Big Enchilada. Sorry for the poor quality, this is a photo of a photo. .

This climb is also listed as Beverly #21 (5.9) and Jackson #12 (5.9).

Protection

TR, or lead it with a rack that includes 1 or more #4 camalots and optional larger cams.
2-bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.9+
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.9+
If you're going to stay in the wide crack (which was mostly rattly fists & armbars for me), more than one #4 Camalot, and maybe even an old #4.5, would be reassuring, if this is at your limit, I recall. Feb 21, 2011