Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 746 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An interesting, easy, fun dihedral with good protection. Steep at the top, with some solid 5.6 exit moves (in the same vein as Car Camping with the Kids). Unfortunately the interesting dihedral part of the climb is only in the top section; the bottom one-third is mainly a blocky ledgy system with some loose-ish boulders. The climb would warrant two stars or more if it weren't for the bottom part. In general, it maybe best to situate the belayer slightly off to the right of the base of the route, out of the way of any possible rockfall from the ledges.
This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #3. It appears to lie between routes #1 and #2 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although he has a photo covering this area on page 186).

Location

Near the far left (western) end of the south face of the Big E. The route ascends a prominent right-facing dihedral that ascends above a broken ledgy area. A landmark is the christmas-tree-shaped pinon tree growing about 15 feet above the ground, on the ledgy area, just to the left of the base of the dihedral. Even though we're on the south face of the Big E, this climb gets early afternoon shade thanks to the big left wall.
Two large cholla are growing just left of the base of the route, and a fat claret cup is growing on the upper ledge just to the right of the route. So, throwing down a toprope could be problematic. If you need to drop the line from above, maybe move about 10 yards to the east, throw down a line to avoid a cactus collision, and then walk the top of your rope back to your anchor.

Protection

Single set of nuts and cams up to a BD #3. Maybe doubles of hands to small fists would be reassuring.
A gear anchor can be built at the top, or sling the nearby junipers (only one tree is readily close by, though).

Photos

Chris, thanks for documenting this, we've enjoyed it.

The loose "toaster-sized rock" has been removed. Also, referring to your photo, there's a platform about five feet down from the top, to the left of your rope line, more or less where the you see a wide rectangular notch showing the sky. I thought to traverse left onto that platform, but there were large loose rocks right at the edge. I finished the direct route and my second cleaned it. Feb 21, 2009
Steven Reneau  
5.7+
The crux seems more like a 5.7, if not a 5.7+ or 5.8- (so if you want a 5.6 lead, be careful about underestimating it). TR can be set with 2 static lines to junipers. Mar 22, 2010