Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 330 total · 3/month
Shared By: Wa3lt on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Easy moves on jugs to a crux reach in the right-facing dihedral. High quality, but loose.

Location

Route #14 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in
South side of the Big Enchilada. Sorry for the poor quality, this is a photo of a photo. .

This climb is also listed as Beverly #16 (5.11b), but is not in Jackson.

Protection

TR, or lead it with TCUs protecting the crux.

Photos

Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
The 11b corner is an ass-kicker and seemed a bit harder than the given grade to me. My partner and I thought most of the rock below the crux was pretty hairball and definitely detracts some stars. Dec 21, 2015
Chuck Calef
  5.11b PG13
Chuck Calef  
  5.11b PG13
Back in the early 90s my Japanese friend Miki Enoeda ( a visiting scientist at the lab) and I climbed the humble "route 14", and ever since I've thought of it as "Miki's climb". I think it is one of the best routes at White Rock with an enigmatic crux that is hard, hard, hard to figure out. Of course once you do then you wonder "What was my problem???" You start the route by pulling on bucket flakes that are not bonded to the cliff, but which have never come out or even moved. If you dislike these flakes then you can start a few feet right on a firm but more difficult layback sequence. It's awkward getting into the flare corner about 20 feet up but not really hard. After oozing through the roof -- the crux -- it's not over. The corner above is pretty blank and slippery. If you want to set a top rope on this climb, the stout juniper at the top makes a good anchor. Another anchor on gear can be had by downclimbing the ledges just south of the Juniper for about 10 feet where you will find good cracks. If you fall off the crux on a top rope you swing into space and may have trouble getting reestablished beneath the hang. To prevent this swing you can place small wires above the overhang that will keep the rope nearer the rock. I think this is a safe lead but a little daunting. The seam through the overhang takes good small wires. But be careful, the landing is really bad. Nov 22, 2017