Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 831 total · 7/month
Shared By: Wa3lt on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Up a bouldery start (crux) with tricky protection to a good ledge. The clean right-facing dihedral above is excellent and well-protected. The first obstacle is turning a 2' roof with jugs to a lieback, followed by sustained stemming in the corner. A brief and easier offwidth section concludes the climb.

Location

Route #17 as shown in
South side of the Big Enchilada. Sorry for the poor quality, this is a photo of a photo. . Note, however, that this is listed as Route #16 in the Chen/Wehner online guide.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #19 (5.10c) and Jackson #15 (5.10a).

Protection

Standard rack to 2.5 inches.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
If you want to avoid the bouldery cruxy start to this climb but still enjoy the upper half at 5.9: Begin with the blocks/flakes as for climb 18, then move left on the ledge 20' up. Mar 22, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Soft for 5.10. Good quality rock. Dec 21, 2015