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Chimney
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in South Side, Big Enchilada
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Boba Fett TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fourth Sister T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Headjam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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HuiHui's Revenge TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Miki's Climb (a.k.a Route 14) T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Offwidth/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Petroglyphs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Route 11 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route 12 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route 13 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Route 15 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 16 TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Route 17 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 18 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 21 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 22 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Route 3 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 5 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 6 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Route 7 TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route 8 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Route 8a T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Route 9 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Three Sisters T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 35.7894, -106.21067 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,290 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Jan 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
This route provides chimney practice. There are also good face holds inside the chimney, or you can ignore them and go full-on chimneying. Unfortunately, it's really short.
This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #1. It lies left of route #1 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although he has a photo covering this area on page 186).
Location
This is the farthest left (west) route described on the south wall of the Big E. It occupies the left side of a big east-facing corner, so it appears to get early AM sun and early PM shade.
Approach the base of chimney two ways: From the right, go up the 4th class blocks, or from the left, start up a blocky 5.8-ish crack system to make the actual climbing last longer.
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