Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 506 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jan 21, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This route provides chimney practice. There are also good face holds inside the chimney, or you can ignore them and go full-on chimneying. Unfortunately, it's really short.
This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #1. It lies left of route #1 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although he has a photo covering this area on page 186).

Location

This is the farthest left (west) route described on the south wall of the Big E. It occupies the left side of a big east-facing corner, so it appears to get early AM sun and early PM shade.
Approach the base of chimney two ways: From the right, go up the 4th class blocks, or from the left, start up a blocky 5.8-ish crack system to make the actual climbing last longer.

Protection

Single trad rack of nuts and cams to maybe 3" will get you up. No need for big stuff, there's plenty of placements on the inner faces of the chimney itself. A gear anchor can be built at the top.

Photos

An alternate start is farther left, up a crack above a cholla, behind a little nose, and then traversing back right, to skip the 4th class section and add more ~5.7 climbing. Adds rope drag on lead and potential pendulum on TR or for seconds. Checked out the “blocky 5.8-ish crack system” on TR, and the easiest of 3 cracks is a bit of an awkward 5.8 or 5.8+ (?), with two harder cracks (5.9 or 5.10?) to the left. The chimney is actually the front of a deep slot where the cliff has started to pull away from the mesa, and is an interesting place to visit for its own sake. My partner thought the chimney was more like 5.8. Mar 22, 2010