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Routes in South Side, Big Enchilada

Boba Fett TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fourth Sister T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headjam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
HuiHui's Revenge TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miki's Climb (a.k.a Route 14) T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Offwidth/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petroglyphs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 11 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 12 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 13 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 15 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 16 TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 17 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 18 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 19 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 22 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 3 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 5 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 6 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 7 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 8 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 9 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Sisters T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 787 total, 7/month
Shared By: Wa3lt on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

If you're going to climb a 5.11 at the Big Enchilada, this is a good choice.

Up a broken dihedral, pull a small roof, and layback (1st crux) up to another overhung crux passing over a bulge below the prow.

Location

Route #22 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on .

This climb is also listed as Beverly #24 (5.11a) and Jackson #9 (5.11a).

Protection

TR, or lead this with a standard rack up to 2", with 2 ea. of smaller cams and TCUs helpful.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.

Photos

Chuck Calef
  5.11c R
Chuck Calef  
  5.11c R
Here is another great climb at Big Enchilada. I always have a struggle with this one as my fingers don't fit into the layback crack above the roof forcing a work-around on face holds and sometimes the terrible arete to the left. I think this is solid 5.11 climbing. The second crux -- passing the second overhang -- can be done by finger-traversing left and then up, or by climbing the arete on the right. The latter is pretty airy and out-of-balance but is probably a little easier. When I do the left traverse I always feel like the 463 pound blue marlin being gaff-hauled over the stern of "Pilar" Ernest Hemingway's fishing boat. I've only led this once, and though it didn't feel "too bad" I think it's a tough lead. I've never found a real rest beneath the first overhang so it's tiring hanging out there while you fiddle with gear. Ditto the second overhang. Also, did I mention the blocky jugs at the base of the corner -- the ones you put gear behind -- aren't that tightly bonded to the cliff? 1 day ago
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
This is one of the "top 10" White Rock cracks IMO, despite having no name and not lots of stars in the guidebook. Jan 18, 2016