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Buffalo Soldier
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 1.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)
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Apartheid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Baby Apes T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Baby Apes (Direct) T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Buffalo Soldier T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dial Africa T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dimp for a Chimp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moonbeam Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Rastafarian T 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Tribal Warfare S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02233, -116.16039 |
| FA: | (TR) Scott Cosgrove, FL: Scott Cosgrove, November 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,535 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Stackhouse on Jan 26, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A very crimpy crux down low, leads to easier, but not by much, climbing via shallow (but good) scares/face holds towards the top. A short jog left near the top finishes. The rock quality is not on par with some of the other routes on this wall (at least when I worked it in 1996). Not often done.
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