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Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)

Apartheid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baby Apes T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buffalo Soldier T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dial Africa T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dimp for a Chimp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonbeam Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: (TR) Scott Cosgrove, FL: Scott Cosgrove, November 1987
Page Views: 692 total · 6/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Jan 26, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A very crimpy crux down low, leads to easier, but not by much, climbing via shallow (but good) scares/face holds towards the top. A short jog left near the top finishes. The rock quality is not on par with some of the other routes on this wall (at least when I worked it in 1996). Not often done.

Location

This is the last route on the far righthand side of the wall (although there is appears to a bolted route right of it, unknown)

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Randy
  5.12c
Randy  
  5.12c
Route is rated 12c. You might want to bring a couple pieces to supplement the bolts (in the crack above 2nd bolt). The other bolted routes to the right are in the guidebook (Joshua Tree West).

One star of 4 or barely 2 stars of 5. Jan 26, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.12c
C Miller   CA  
  5.12c
Not a classic but the moves are good and definitely in your face. The crux is a horrendous gaston move down low but there's still some trickery above. Two stars out of five. Jan 26, 2009
Adam Stackhouse    
 
RV, I thought I saw a bolt or three just a few feet right of BS, on the same rock (not the rock that has Take the Pain) but I'll double check next time I'm out there. Jan 26, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.12c
C Miller   CA  
  5.12c
There's a 5.10a route with 2 bolts not too far right of this route which could be what you're thinking of. Jan 26, 2009
If Mike did this first, it's news to me, as when I did the first ascent he certainly had not climbed it yet. He did try it on TR as I remember, but never straight through and declared it crap. LOL. Maybe I'm wrong and knowing how worked up Mike gets about these things, I could clearly not be remembering things correctly. After all it was 27 years ago.

It's not a quality line but needed to be climbed, hard crux and shares the start as Tribal Warfare, that is a much cooler route. Sep 4, 2013

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