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Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)

Apartheid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baby Apes T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buffalo Soldier T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dial Africa T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dimp for a Chimp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonbeam Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: (TR) John Bachar, 1983 FL: Wolfgang Gullich, 1987
Page Views: 1,684 total · 18/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Mar 28, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Moonbeam crack is short and powerful. From the start, do a hard lockoff to a good, rounded hold. Then power through a few lie-back moves, eventually high-stepping to that good, rounded hold. Set up for a big move and go for the hold out left (a sloping ledge/slot). This is the crux. Finish up the widening crack to a one bolt anchor. If you're shorter (5'10" or under) this is harder than Desert Shield. A fun, stout, and powerful route.

Location

This is the thin seem that is just right of Dimp for a Chimp on the left side of the Peyote Wall East Face (aka the Bachar Toprope Wall).

Protection

This route is usually TR, but can be lead. Small cams (metolius #1 & #2 before the crux), offset nuts (small - medium) and for the end a #5 - #6 metolius.

Photos

Kurt smith is way under 5'9". If he got it, it's not a reach issue. Oct 18, 2013
V9/10 boulder problem is the crux? Aug 9, 2013
D.Burd  
Thanks Will,

I am motivated by this comment. I have just attempted to do the climb and felt very weak after many floundering attempts at the crux. I would still like to do the climb, and am now motivated to build my power back up to pull those 2-3 moves. I will repost in a couple months with a send under my belt (fingers crossed).

Dustin B

( Did not send, but instead tweaked finger. I have recovered, but have not returned... 1-17-12) Dec 20, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
FA on TR by John Bachar in 1983.
FA on lead by Wolfgang G├╝llich in 1987.

I hesitate to say this, but after strolling the bottom half, top half, and working the 2-3 move crux over a few days, the route is height dependent (for the rating, anyway). Crux foothold(s) will be out of reach if you're under about 6' or don't have a huge positive ape index. I'm 5'9" with about a +2 and come up ~ 4"-6" short of being able to get a foot on the crux foothold after hanging the big move. There are other sequences available, but they would be way harder IMO, very powerful and either really scrunched up, or very dynamic.

I'd be curious to know the shortest person to send this rig. A small person with tiny fingers might find it reasonable for the rating, but they'd need tips smaller than 00 tcu.

A recent successful climber, who can reach the crux foothold (and has climbed multiple Josh routes at the grade) called the crux V10. Another really strong climber who sends double digit V-grades in Josh called the crux V9 and could not send due to height.

Protection is adequate, although slightly funky around the crux. A couple Metolius yellow tcus, a hand sized and a tips,fingers, or med stopper sized piece seemed best. If you want to back up the single bolt anchor for TRing, you can get tips to 1" pieces in about 30'back from the lip. Nov 15, 2010