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Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)

Apartheid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baby Apes T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buffalo Soldier T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dial Africa T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dimp for a Chimp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonbeam Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: (TR) John Bachar, March, 1980 FL: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1982 (?)
Page Views: 2,853 total, 16/month
Shared By: C Miller on Nov 29, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Classic line on the left side of the east face that climbs past the left side of a prominent roof via a thin crack. Seldom done and even less seldom led, this tenuous and powerful line has been soloed!

Protection

pro to 1.5", anchors or TR

Photos

I saw many people do the Baby Apes, and lead it -first try-, back in 91? I did clip my bolt on Rastafarian, but still would have hit the deck going for the top. It was a desperate lead and I was happy to have sent it first try.

I never saw the wall as a top rope wall, as the first time I did most of the routes with the exception of Moon Beam, I lead them.

So, when I put up the Rastafarian, on lead, I did not see it as a breach of style to add a bolt to a mostly independent line. People didn't like it, but no one chopped it and the second ascent of Rastafarian was done by Allen Moore who felt it could be 14b. No holds have change or broken and yes I checked. I didn't know how hard it was at the time, so I gave a joke rating of 13b. It is very hard... So, easy on RTM Allen uprated and I agree...

I have done every line on the wall and feel that gives me the best voice in ratings, I'd say Moon Beam,13a, Baby Apes,12b, Rastafarian,14a/b, Watusi,12c, Dial Africa,12b, Apartheid,12a/b, Tribal Warfare,13a/b, Buffalo Soldier 12c. Sep 4, 2013
peachy spohn  
 
I led this the other day. After the bolt I placed a #9 offset nut in the right hand slot used to reach the final horizontal. I felt the nut made the move harder, but it was a solid placement. A fun route. Mar 28, 2010
Drewsky  
The following thread should be entertaining to those familiar with the route:

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

The first two pictures of the route show me on my first and second attempts, falling off and redpointing, respectively.

The third picture of the route speaks for itself!

If leading the route, the bolt or cam essentially protects the entire crux. The gear I am falling on in the picture was not expected to hold a fall (it did) and it indeed blocked vital holds. What a great route! Falling off the end of the crux on lead onto the bolt is a bit of a "street sweeper". Dec 19, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.12c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.12c
This along with the Moonbeam Crack to the left was soloed by Michael Reardon. Feb 13, 2008
Randy
  5.12c
Randy  
  5.12c
Since chris and others seem reluctant to give beta, here it is:

Simply grab the next holds and move on by, until you reach the top.

Mar 26, 2005
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Hey AC - shall we just climb the route for you too? If you need that much beta you're in over your head. Mar 24, 2005
can someone please give move by move beta starting with the "ape" move ending at the horizontal jugs near the top...how do you control the barndoor move? the pocket sequences? hand and foot placements...thanks Mar 24, 2005
Randy
  5.12c
Randy  
  5.12c
The route has always gone across the traverse. How hard is the direct start??; it must be harder. No one seems to care that the first bolt on Rastafarian can be used if you want to lead Baby Apes. It hardly makes the route any easier to protect (bomber cam here anyway), and 99% of people TR it anyway. Jan 22, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Original line? Traverse left above the lip ala Bearded Cabbage. Jan 21, 2003
RTM
  5.12c
RTM  
  5.12c
Does the original line go left onto the face before the roof, or does it traverse in from the jugs above the lip of the roof (by the bolt)?

thanks Jan 21, 2003
Randy
  5.12c
Randy  
  5.12c
Though you can now use the first bolt on Rastafarian for protection on the intial crux, leading this route is extremely difficult as hanging out and placing gear (usually in the finger pockets you are going to use) is very strenuous. As a lead, it would be 12d or so. Powerful moves.

Uses first bolt of Rastafarian to protect swing and moves into crack. Jan 14, 2003