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Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)

Apartheid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Baby Apes T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buffalo Soldier T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dial Africa T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dimp for a Chimp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonbeam Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: (TR): John Bachar, March 1980. (Lead): Scott Cosgrove
Page Views: 677 total · 6/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is great and different in style than Baby Apes. The start is a bit vexing: the moves off the Apartheid ramp are difficult, as is clipping the first bolt. I placed and subsequently back-cleaned a cam in/from the ramp; pre-clipping the bolt makes a fall from the ramp disastrous, although the climbing is relatively easy. Pick your poison. The initial difficulties continue pretty much to the end. Another stellar route on a wall full of classics!

Location

Climb the ramp that begins Apartheid, but climb left around the corner instead of straight up. Bolted anchor but no fixed rappel setup; walk-off the south side of the formation.

Protection

3 bolts plus a piece of gear for the Apartheid ramp. Bolted Anchor.

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Randy
 
Randy  
 
Not one of the best routes on the wall, particularly since the bolt placements are poorly located (2nd bolt in particular). Dec 20, 2008