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Routes in The Citadel

? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Citadel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Down Your Hair S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rapunzel, Rapunzel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wake of The Red Witch S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 547 total, 5/month
Shared By: Damon Vaughan on Nov 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a long, sustained climb on the backside of the Citadel. The rock is pretty decent but needs to clean up a a bit. It seems like it never gets climbed, as there is lichen all over it and no chalk after the start. The steep beginning is the crux - pull through it and you get a no hands ledge to contemplate the rest of the route. After that, it's very consistent and sustained 11+ ish to the top.

Location

It is the rightmost climb on the backside of The Citadel.

Protection

12 bolts and solid closed anchors. The first bolt is very high- too high for my stick clip even, but the climbing is easy and you can clip it off a jug.

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Elijah Flenner
  5.12
Elijah Flenner  
  5.12
It is too bad that the lower part is so loose, since the upper part is very good. Difficult to rate since the route still seems to be evolving, and the climb may always be loose. Hopefully the holds at the crux stick around, but I doubt it. We broke several at the bottom section, but nothing critical. Difficult to climb it clean when holds keep breaking. Mar 26, 2012