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Routes in The Citadel

? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Citadel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Down Your Hair S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rapunzel, Rapunzel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wake of The Red Witch S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 964 total · 9/month
Shared By: Cale Farnham on Sep 27, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a well-protected route with thin and pumpy moves! I would say the crux could be 12a 4-5 bolts up! It has some good moves that require good liebacks up into a solid finish!

Location

This is on The Palace (Citadel Rock).

Protection

12 bolts to the anchor.

Photos

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Coronas and Lime is the Citadel route. They got it wrong in the book. I helped put up this line. There were no bolts on it when we put it up, and it had definitely never been climbed or been cleaned. Dec 4, 2012
I believe this is the route Casey and I bolted back in the early '90s (1993 I believe), and we called "Coronas and Lime". Craig mistakenly FA'd, because we did not know to Red Tag at the time. At the time, the Palace name did not exist and only a few routes were down on the wall with the mine shaft. Rob Poutre and Ron Ambrose were putting in lines in the canyon as well as other locals. Dec 4, 2012
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The crux felt bouldery and right on at 11c/d. The hold just under the crux clipping bolt added some excitement- the crunching noises that it gives off sound worse than it is though I wouldn't be suprised if it blows off in someones face while they are going for it so be aware. The top section has some fun moves but needs to see more traffic, otherwise I would give this climb three stars. Jan 22, 2009
Cale Farnham  
 
Stellar route and super pumpy! Good pro and one of my favorites in the area! Superb view of the Crystal Wall and all other routes in the area, must do at The Palace! Sep 29, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Great climb, I followed Cale on this one, all I could say the whole time was "take". This climb is #3 on the topo sport map of The Palace. Sep 29, 2008