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Routes in The Citadel

? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Citadel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Down Your Hair S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rapunzel, Rapunzel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wake of The Red Witch S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: D. Peavey, T. Wilhelmi, K. Gibson, '04
Page Views: 129 total, 7/month
Shared By: bart cubrich 1 on Apr 9, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Work up easy terrain clipping two bolts below the overhang. Try not to pull off any huge blocks onto your belayer's head, especially before you clip the second bolt. Climb consistent, easy 5.12 through 3 bolts to a no hands rest ledge. Clip the high bolt on the slab, and continue up consistent, 11+/12- slab on crimps and lichen slopers to the chains.

The route has some serious choss at the beginning, even during the crux, and it seems like it never gets climbed. It has very cool moves. This is not a give away 5.12 as you have to try hard all the way til the end. There is one good rest on the slab in a big flake.

Location

This route is right of The Citadel (11b) and left of Roll the Bones (12-). It is the second route to the left on the back side of The Citadel.

Protection

14 bolts + anchors.

Photos

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