Avg: 2.9 from 15 votes
Routes in The Citadel
|? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Citadel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Let Down Your Hair S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rapunzel, Rapunzel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Roll the Bones S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wake of The Red Witch S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Type:||Sport, 95 ft|
|Page Views:||1,945 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Spencer Anderson on Aug 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a good route with fun moves. Start with feet on the broken/crumbly base of the tower (foot holds might break off). If you start closer to A Dazed Work, then it's a little easier and the rock seems a bit more solid (make sure you traverse right after). The first clip is somewhat taxing (stick clip isn't a bad idea if this is your limit). The rest of the route is very well bolted. The crux comes about 25 feet off the ground when moving over the obvious bulge using the crack. Generally, the holds are very solid and the moves are big. This route might be a little more difficult for shorter people. Make sure you stay to the right, as the features seem to make you want to move left.
The last 1/3 of the climb (once you get to the big crack system) is easier in comparison. If the rock quality was better (particularly at the base) and the difficulty stayed more consistent, this route would definitely be four stars. This is a great one nonetheless.