Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Citadel

? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Citadel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Down Your Hair S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rapunzel, Rapunzel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wake of The Red Witch S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,945 total, 15/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a good route with fun moves. Start with feet on the broken/crumbly base of the tower (foot holds might break off). If you start closer to A Dazed Work, then it's a little easier and the rock seems a bit more solid (make sure you traverse right after). The first clip is somewhat taxing (stick clip isn't a bad idea if this is your limit). The rest of the route is very well bolted. The crux comes about 25 feet off the ground when moving over the obvious bulge using the crack. Generally, the holds are very solid and the moves are big. This route might be a little more difficult for shorter people. Make sure you stay to the right, as the features seem to make you want to move left.

The last 1/3 of the climb (once you get to the big crack system) is easier in comparison. If the rock quality was better (particularly at the base) and the difficulty stayed more consistent, this route would definitely be four stars. This is a great one nonetheless.

Location

This route is on the northwest face of the Citadel tower formation. There are only two routes on this side, and you run right into them as you make you way from the approach trail. A Dazed Work is directly to the left, about 2 feet. (See the photo.)

Protection

13 bolts and two anchors with chains. At least a 60m rope.

Photos

I'm guessing it is from the slack-liners cranking out on the bolt, but hey, brah!, we're setting up some heady lines at The Palace, and who cares about the tension strength vs. the sheer strength on a bolt, because it's a bolt and it's totally bomber, dude! Apr 26, 2017
A-W
A-W  
The left anchor bolt needs to be replaced. Apr 26, 2017
bart cubrich 1
  5.11b
bart cubrich 1  
  5.11b
Be very careful at the top. Some very big, very loose blocks up there, that you will want to grab and stand on nonetheless. Apr 9, 2016