Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||FRA Jason Halladay and Allison Fritz, Nov. 2008|
|Page Views:||565 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Nov 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionNot so much a route on Angel Food Wall but rather, a short crack on a good face on the small buttress that splits the Angel Food Descent Gully about half way down the gully. If you've just completed a climb of Tunnel Vision, Purblind Pillar or any of the other fine lines on the Angel Food Wall but need to kill some time on the descent while waiting for your slower friends (like we were recently) this is a fun little line to climb as you walk right past it while descending from the wall.
This is the mostly-fingers crack that splits the east face of the major buttress in the middle of the descent gully about 1/2 way down. As you descend down the gully, look back up at the east face of the buttress. Start climbing near some small bushes and find good .4 to .75 camalot placements to protect the initial bulge/roof. Up higher a tricky move past a tiny roof on less than perfect rock leads to better rock and good patina face holds along the crack to the left side of a bigger roof. Find a nice .5 camalot placement in the corner back under the roof to protect the moves left around it and enjoy fun face climbing to the flat top of the buttress.