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Routes in Angel Food Wall

Beheaded Burro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Healy's Haunted House T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Killin' Time T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lean Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
On the prowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Within T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy Hole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tele-vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FRA Jason Halladay and Allison Fritz, Nov. 2008
Page Views: 550 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Not so much a route on Angel Food Wall but rather, a short crack on a good face on the small buttress that splits the Angel Food Descent Gully about half way down the gully. If you've just completed a climb of Tunnel Vision, Purblind Pillar or any of the other fine lines on the Angel Food Wall but need to kill some time on the descent while waiting for your slower friends (like we were recently) this is a fun little line to climb as you walk right past it while descending from the wall.

This is the mostly-fingers crack that splits the east face of the major buttress in the middle of the descent gully about 1/2 way down. As you descend down the gully, look back up at the east face of the buttress. Start climbing near some small bushes and find good .4 to .75 camalot placements to protect the initial bulge/roof. Up higher a tricky move past a tiny roof on less than perfect rock leads to better rock and good patina face holds along the crack to the left side of a bigger roof. Find a nice .5 camalot placement in the corner back under the roof to protect the moves left around it and enjoy fun face climbing to the flat top of the buttress.

Location

As you descend the Angel Food gully there's a point where a major buttress splits the gully. The left side of the buttress cliffs out so you are forced to go up and right over the buttress and then down. Start at the bottom of the buttresses' east face. A small sandstone plaque might mark the start.

Protection

Doubles in the .4 to .75 camalot range. Single #1 and single #2 camalots and some small to medium wires. At the top, walk back about 30 feet and find a good crack where a medium nut and a .5 camalot make for a good anchor. Walk back down the descent gully to your packs.

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