Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in Angel Food Wall
|Beheaded Burro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Healy's Haunted House T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Killin' Time T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Lean Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|On the prowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Rebel Within T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sandy Hole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tele-vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Neal Douglass and Jason Martin, March 2010|
|Page Views:||759 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Jason D. Martin on Mar 25, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionOn March 22nd, an unfortunate burro was beheaded in an accident on SR 159. We saw the aftermath that morning. A car was in the ditch, a burro lay in the road, and the head was nowhere to be seen. We don't know if the passengers were okay...
We decided to name the route after the event and wanted to remind people not to feed the burros. When they are fed, they come to the road and things like this happen.
On the 23rd, Neal Douglass and I climbed Purblind Pillar. We spotted a nice crack right above the descent gully and started climbing:
Pitch One -- Pull through cruxy 5.7 moves right off the ground. As the crack widens, it eases. Cross some low fifth class terrain to another crack on the right. Climb up onto a bushy ledge and belay. (160')
Before starting the next pitch, move the belay past the large block and set-up above the "Strawberry Chasm." Build an anchor near the deep cave.
Pitch Two -- Step across the chasm and move up right toward another nice crack. Follow the 5.7 crack to a large sandy ledge. (120')
Pitch Three -- Climb up the corner from the sandy ledge (5.7) to the top of the pillar. Drop down on the other side and build an anchor on the patina. (75')
LocationThe route may be found immediately above the start of the descent route for Purblind Pillar.
From the top of pitch three, rap 100' into a brushy gully. Descend the brushy gully to the main Angel Food Wall descent. Beware - right before you meet the regular descent, it gets spicy. Down-climb third, fourth and occasional fifth-class terrain right before meeting the standard descent.