Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft|
|FA:||Kevin Hogan, Scott Massey|
|Page Views:||819 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||smassey on Oct 31, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionNice crack. Bulgy thin hands start to easier finish. The lefthand finish is better than the bushy chimney. A little grungy rock at the start, but quite fun overall.
LocationFirst, climb Purblind Pillar. Then, instead of following the standard descent gully (northern-most), veer into the gully to skier's right. Downclimb a cl4 chimney/slab past rap slings around a block. Look across the gully. The left crack on the small buttress in front of you is the route. Climb it. Feel free to continue cleaning the start, as well.
If you bothered to bring two ropes, in theory you could just rap the route. We rapped off the backside about 50', then scrambled down and left to a somewhat exposed rap off a scrub oak. A 60m rope just makes it. Slings and rings on both trees.